rocknev 2 Posted July 9, 2008 Report Share Posted July 9, 2008 my 18yr old snyderglas 8 wrap is finally giving up the ghost...the thread around eyes is falling apart....so im having a go at repairing it....this is the first time ive tackled anything like this so advice(good or bad) is welcomed please...the red is electrical tape to hold the eye in place while i wrap it in blue....i also put an underwrap in black as it never had one before....it may not be the neatest job but will it work are the thoughts im after from the pics....the finish around the rod itself is getting a bit beat u as well....the opoxy im using for the eyes...can it also be brushed onto the blank itself? one hell of a job....who ever builds custom rods has my respect.....the rod is far too good to throw away.... this has caught some very nice snapper and tangled with some huge rays and toothey fish that i havnt had a chance of slowing let alone turning....if it works out ok i will redo my snyderglas 7wrap onepice rod as well.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rocknev 2 Posted July 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2008 im also looking for a bit of advice for the tip eye....its a new one that was put on by a shop ,but the glue they use is for a better word....SHIT..they use a candle like stick thats melted and dripped on then eye is shoved on ..when dry it SHOULD set...but a dog has more grip on lino than this rubbish does.....this is the 3rd eye they have put on for me,and they ALL spin......should i put an underwrap under the tip than a wrap OVER the tip as well? or just superglue the tip on. ??? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
1ONMEPILLIE 0 Posted July 9, 2008 Report Share Posted July 9, 2008 Rocknev how are u mate :)the glue they use on end eyelets is a hotmelt gluenormally a very strong bond (Maybe not enough applied). Normally used as it is much easier to replace the tip if insert is broken (just heat up and pull off)not bad binding either for first attemt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
niftrev 2 Posted July 9, 2008 Report Share Posted July 9, 2008 G'day Rocknev I 've always used 5 minute Arildite. This glue isn't as strong as the 24 hr bond.You can use heat to soften it but you must be careful or you will damage the rod. The hot melt glue is the preferred method used however these days.Some of my tips for ya! I like to use good quality masking tape (cut to small strips aprox 4mm wide). This should be used to hold the eyes in place to the underbinding. Masking tape shouldn't leave any adhesive residue that may harm the 2 pack coating. For a good professional laquer finish I have had little trouble using Jack Erskins 2 part rod binding finish. (must be mixed with exact equal amounts of each Part A & part B, (2 small syringes can be used to measure both accurately) You don't want to coat it to only have the coating not harden properly. If this happens you will then have to go through the whole rod binding procedure again. Remember heated even temperature plays important part in preventing air bubbles (hair dryer is useful) My personal preference is to try and keep the length of the bindings shorter rather than longer as shown in your original rod wraps. ( I think it gives a neater finish )Use a lamp close to your bindings and check often to make sure you don't cross over anywhere. Small gaps can be sometimes closed if you use the flat blunt back edge of a knife then using slight pressure push back towards one end or sometimes the middle closing the gap together. It is important to close the gaps on the under bindings before wraping the over bindings. This makes the over binding easier to wrap with less gaps.First attempt looks good and will work just depends on how fussy you are. Patience is the key.With a lot of patience Im sure you will get a great result and satisfaction from rebuilding your sentimental 18 yr snyderglass 8 wrap rod and once finished you will be eager to tackle the 7 wrap. Hope this has helped. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rocknev 2 Posted July 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2008 many thanks on the tips.....the erskines epoxy you mentions is the type i have...great idea using the 2 syringes....the fishing shop was very helpfull in that regard supplying the glue and thread.cept they only had the light blue or purple....i never would have thought many people actually do this but was told they sell a fair bit of the thread.....must be some massochists out there...why anyone would do this for fun has got me beat.i can get the loan of a rod turner to rotate while it dries so will do so...original idea was to take too work and put in a lathe and slowly turn it.but the battery operated device seems the way to go.im trying to do the best job i can but i dont really have the patience...as long as first cast i dont have eyes going wayward is good enough for me.cheers to all. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tully 4 Posted July 10, 2008 Report Share Posted July 10, 2008 I agree with niftrev RE: gluing tips on. Shops use the hot glue, but 5 min ute araldite is better and can still be melted if the tip needs replacing again. Don't use 24 hour Araldite, nothing will ever remove a broken tip glued on with that stuff. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rocknev 2 Posted July 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2008 cheers buds......the rod is progression nicely....if i didnt just a do a night shift i could be ready for glue today....but cant see strsight now......all i want to see are zzzzzzzzzzz's flying around the room. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
coonta kinta 1 Posted July 10, 2008 Report Share Posted July 10, 2008 Good onya for giving it a go rocknev. Built a few sticks in my younger days. Sure was good taking good fish on sticks u built up yourself. Not all were success's however and these days I just buy off the rack. Get'n lazy!Built up an 8 wrap 144 early on to suit an alvey, was a gr8 stick that accounted for its fair share of XOS LB reds from the stones. As well as some not so XOS!Good luck with it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rocknev 2 Posted July 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2008 okk an update....layed some eppoxy on tonight and rod is slowly turning to dry....may ot be the neatest job around but looks ok for a first attempt....question though...THE ERSKINS EPOXY IM USING LOOKS GOOD...TOOK A TIP I FOUND ON A DVD ABOUT BUILDING RODS AND ADDED 10 DROPS OF ACETONE....MADE A HUGE DIFFERENCE....NO BUBBLES AT ALL AND THE EPPOXY WENT ON REAL EASY....CAN THE SAME STUFF BE USED ON THE BLANK ITSELF? MAINLY TO TIDY THE ROD UP A BIT TO SMOOTH OUT SOME OF THE SCRATCHES THAT HAPPEN WHEN ROCK FISHING.....???? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
coonta kinta 1 Posted July 15, 2008 Report Share Posted July 15, 2008 Rocknev, totally up to you m8, but personally I wouldnt epoxy the blank. Especially not a rock rod. The cracking, flaking, and scratches would look worse I reckon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rocknev 2 Posted July 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2008 thank never thought of that..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cal 480 Posted August 15, 2008 Report Share Posted August 15, 2008 Hows it coming along rocknev, starting to look the goods,hopefully your project is a success.Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rocknev 2 Posted August 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2008 yeah it worked out a treat.....r sure not the neatest job ive seen,but it works and thats the main thing....borrowed a rotater to turn rod slowely for about 12 hrs in this cold weather to allow sealer to fully dry....'have tried it out a few times and all looks good.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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