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Straight Fluorocarbon


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I was running 3lb on one of my bream outfits for a while. It was ok when there were no snags around but you really lack the ability to work fish around structure. Then there is the lack of feel, if you're working the flats or open areas with hard bodies its ok. I didn't like it when using soft plastics or bouncing a hard body around structure.

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I've replied to this question on another forum, I'll paste it here for others to read.

 

 

 

Number one pro about spinning fluoro; The number of strikes you get are doubled compared to 6lb or 4lb leader.  Very handy for picky fish on a dead day.  Has definitely made the difference between a fishless session and a fishful session. 

Another pro plenty of lure fisho's say is that the stretch it gives is perfect for absorbing the strikes of hard hitting fish like bream; so you don't pull trebles out of the mouth.  I would agree with them. You aren't getting the sensitivity of braid, but you can still feel the lure working or fish nibbling.  You get used to it and using a higher modulus rod is what you may need.

 

 

Cons:  It's weak unlike braid. Sucks when you are fishing a jetty or some place high and you can't lift 40cm of bream.  You may need to use a rod with a slower action.  Something like a trout rod would be perfect to absorb some of the pulls of the fish.  Casting 3lb and below breaking strains is fine but the higher you go it is very springy.  One more I can think of is the abrasion.  One kink or tear in the line may lose you the fish, depending how much drag you put on. 

 

To finish off, fluoro is a definite yes for me. Especially when I'm 'finesse' bait fishing when you need your line to be non-existent to the fish. 

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About a year ago I started using straight thru on my lightest flats combo with a 1000 reel. It's awesome! Hook pulls are rare and hookups are so much easier to come by. I use hards mainly, however. I use it along heavy structure, and have been mostly fine so far, but it's always scary throwing a zipbait or ecogear with the 3lb! I had 2.5lb before the 3 and found I had many more bust-offs thru random breaks, losing like 100 bucks of lures in a month or so alone, so 3lb is way better for that slight extra strength. In WL it's fine for plastics as they smash it anyway so hookup isn't a problem, but turning fish can prove difficult. But oh well, they're just plastics. However, in the onk, or a river it sucks for plastics. Although it works, it takes away a lot of hook setting power and feel. This is why I also run a second outfit of a 2500 with pe 0.6 braid.

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May be going off tangent here,but what excactly does pe mean,what  are  the measurements and what is the ratio of pe/poundage,kilos,ie what equivalent would for example pe 0.6 be in kilos/pounds? B)

 

PE= Polyethylene.  Material braided lines are made out of. Also what the Japanese system for diameters of braid (silk traditionally) is called.  The number represent set diameters. 

Peline_chart.png

This is set diameters for PE #.

 

Breaking strength differs with  different materials and material quality. What the breaking strength on the packaging is what the company states as the breaking strength.  The PE # only refers to the diameter of the line only!

 

I've lost count how many times I have explained this to people. 

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