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ShimsMan last won the day on October 23 2013

ShimsMan had the most liked content!

About ShimsMan

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  1. I don't use a lot of braid so i'm no authority on it (I use bonded nylon thread instead, ha!) But if I were to recommend something it'd be the Platypus platinum braid in natural white; mainly because it's the pure, non dyed line and is more limp and arguably stronger than coloured lines.Not many other companies sell braid natural but i think Tasline and ATC do, and Ray Annes stocks ATC last i saw on the site, but the platy stuff is made here so it's a winner! Only problem is you'll more than likely have to order it in...LINK
  2. Wishing, the knot in the pic works well with thicker lines i've found.Anything thinner than about 15lb mono and i finish the knot off by putting the tag end through the loop instead. Also, make sure you pull all 4 lines to tighten, then just the main lines to seat it; you'll need to pull it almost hard enough to snap the knot if you wanna trim real close!
  3. The knot being tied well is certainly important' date=' what type of knot you use is up to you and personal for some...I've tried the double blood, uni to uni, slim beauty, improved albright and bristol and settled on the bristol as my favourite; It's very strong, easy to tie (even with cold hands at night,) and has a nice low profile that slips through the guides almost effortlessly!Pic for reference:[img']http://i.imgur.com/MyHC2z7.jpg[/img]Dab some superglue on the finished knot and make sure the leader is long enough to wrap around the spool 4-6 times and you're golden!
  4. I use the bristol for all my line to leader connections, except instead of a bimini in the main line I just double the line over then trim both ends once the knot is done.It's a little touchy with how many turns you use too, tying a 40lb leader onto 15lb mainline i think i only need about 5-6 turns, otherwise the knot won't fully seat itself. put on a drop of superglue and you have a very strong knot!
  5. From the PIRSA site:"The Port River Mud Cockle fishery has been closed to all commercial and recreational fishing activity since 1 July 2011 due to ongoing concerns about the sustainability of fish stocks.The fishing closure has been extended until 30 June 2014"Pretty sure there's no closure on Razorfish though, it should, in theory, be a very good whiting ground though; much like the flats just south of st kilda channel.
  6. Sounds really good punisher!I'm mostly a bait fisho but i'd have some confidence with plastics out there of all places! I've got some zman grubs, some clear green sparkle kokoda swimbaits, blades and topwater divers to try out still!If i was going with baits, i'd probably use unweighted pillies for ST's and worms or gents for the smaller stuff; hopefully will do the trick!Also, how likely am i to see sharks in the cutting?
  7. Yeah I thought there would be a chance of flatties on a dropping tide, on an incoming tide would the cutting flow north?Where would you position yourself and would it be on a falling or rising tide callop?Thanks for your input so far!
  8. Was looking at doing some fishing in the yellow tack area in the map.top side is st kilda, bottom is OH channel at the first bend.What species should i expect and what tides do you guys think would work?
  9. unless the bend is affecting your casts or fighting fish i'd leave it to be honest.You don't want to weaken the resin by trying to reset it with heat, the directionality of the rod comes from the weave of the cloth and rod blanks are often bent opposite the spine slightly to start with, if it were bent in the opposite direction of the spine or laterally i'd start worrying then.If you really must, leaving the rod in the sun with the bend facing up might correct it somewhat; heat gun will possibly cook the resin if you're not very very careful and will weaken the rod if it gets a hot spot (rods are baked in an oven to set them for a reason, not spot heated with a gun.)if it's a very pricey rod and you absolutely have to have it straight as a die, give ross or rob a call and see if anything can be done.
  10. I think there's a little while to go still Plankton, finalizing a product design is a lengthy process and i'm sure Komodo will let us know when he's picked a winner!Can't wait to see what he turns out actually, would love an alvey option too in the final design.Unless it's an interline... could you imagine?
  11. Was wondering if anyone knows much about how Wrapped leather grips are made.I'm familiar with stacked grips like this:But i'm interested in making some grips like these:And these:I have plenty of access to bovine, kangaroo, fish and ray leathers; so that's not the issue.The main issue is how to secure, and more importantly; terminate these kind of wraps.Any insight would be appreciated, I've been experimenting with some hardcore leather waterproofing solutions and am curious as to how the wrapping is done.Thanks in advance,-Shimsman
  12. ShimsMan


    Des,Tried out your new finesse rig off the beach and got myself a 37cm fat sand whiting! Slow day but it was a nice fish that made it all worthwhile.I can confirm the smaller pest fish attacking the lower hook; I had puffer and ST either nipping the trailing part of the worm or eating the bottom hook only! Cast weight of a 10g bean sinker worked nice this time but might try go down to 8g if it's calm enough next time!Do you think that the sinker kicking up sand as it runs along the bottom helps or hurts your chances with whiting?
  13. Thanks toney,Will take the jump and get the 8144, 6oz should be more than enough for what i'm doing but if not, I can just use a grapnel.The real challenge now is to find some grapnels with wires that won't rust when you wag some salted samboys at them.
  14. The rod I'm looking at is the heavy surf, would that be capable of 6-8oz casting?I'm pretty sure 8 wraps could handle that kind of abuse, but wanna be sure before I take the plunge and buy one...