tully
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Posts posted by tully
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Hi marko, i was in Sth. Africa back in 1980 and saw some guys catching Elf, known here as Tailor. They are pretty common on the east coast of Oz where I live.Marlin are pretty common here too, and caught surprisingly close to the coast at times. Here's a couple of youtube clips I put up. It's my mate on the rod earlier this yearhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FApjzKYfKKYhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lfSRQ1RcZgg&feature=related
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I'm thinking of doing the same thing SMP.I bought a DSLR late last year, as the compact thing I was using took terrible pics.After carting the DSLR all over Vietnam I'm totally over it. Too bulky.I know bugger all about photography anyway, so the DSLR is wasted on me, should have bought a good quality compact.
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A little additional info....if there is a communal jar of "cookies" available at your accommodation which you pay for via the honor system, just eat half a cookie first, and don't plan on doing much for the rest of the day.Ranger, that last link actually works, you are a bad boy.
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I'm not sure I agree with those who think sharks are more common near metro beaches these days. More common compared to what?As a nipper in the Henley surf life savers during the 60s, I remember shark sightings were very common. The club had a shark siren, and it got used often. The older guys would row the surf boat out and try to scare the sharks away from the area, the jetty seemed to attract quite a few. Don't know what species they were, I was only a kid, but some of the sharks were huge, and clearly visible from up on the jetty, in shallow water.
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It's an interesting topic to debate, but at the end of the day nothing needs to change, at least not in S.A.There's no way to keep sharks away from any area. Here in NSW they employ shark nets on the popular swimming beaches, and the Govt. stand by their policy. It's a hot point of debate here at present because of the annual whale migration, every year whales get caught up in shark nets.The statistics speak for themselves as to the actual effectiveness of the net program, it's indisputable.Interestingly, kilometers of beach can be made reasonably safe by just one net a hundred metres long placed in a known shark travel alley, it disrupts their travel routine and prevents them setting up a beat to patrol.The trouble is, sharks can still go anywhere they want.In my opinion swimmers aren't really in any danger on beaches, they don't venture far. It's surfers who are at risk. I spent most of the 70s and 80s surfing places like Cactus and Streaky and never saw a white while surfing, although a mate survived a white attack at Cactus. There have been others who weren't so lucky. One death that has always stuck in my mind was a young lad who was swimming a short distance from the jetty at point sinclair to his parents yacht anchored nearby.All you can do is minimize the risk to yourself.Since I moved to NSW, I was surprised to learn just how common Whites are here. Along Stockton beach, just North of Newcastle, they are very common, it's now thought to be a breeding ground for them as most sightings are juvenile sharks. It doesn't deter surfers, the Whites feast on the hordes of Salmon which are a permanent presence, and people just don't seem to be on the menu. South Aust. is a different story though, and I saw my share of bigguns while working on the Tuna poling boats from Port Lincoln in the 80s, scary stuff even standing on the deck of big boat.Bottom line is, there is nothing that can be done to make the sea safe from White Pointer attack, other than netting popular swimming beaches, and that gives people a false sense of security. Most people think the beaches are actually netted off i.e. nothing can get in, but truth is far from it.
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The blank will probably be a S153(7W) S=surf 153=inches (7W)=wrapsAlso available as a 9 wrapIs it possible the prefix 6 is a S?This is how Snyder designated most of their models.Kilwell and Pacific Composites (Butterworth) designated their models like this..MT8144 MT=multi taper 8=wraps 144=inches or FSU4120 FSU=fast surf 4=wraps 120=inches
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Snyder (or ATS as they have been known for a few years) no longer exist, they closed the Qld. factory before Christmas. :'(The FSU series was my favorite, in a 4120.
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Living in NSW as I do, I can offer responses to some of the points raised so far, as we have had to cough up $ for a few years now.It does NOT give anyone a "voice"It can be purchased in various forms ie..1 day, 3 days, 1 week, 1 month, 1 year, 3 years etc.They can be bought from service stations, tackle shops, even K-mart.Kids up to a certain age are covered by the license held by the adult present.In NSW all the money goes into a trust fund (not general revenue.The money is then spent on restocking programs, offshore FAD deployment, artificial reefs, rockfishing safety, research, fisheries officers and a lot of other stuff.The money is NOT spent on things like boat ramps etc. they are the responsibility of local councils, and always will be. It does cover cleaning tables and other facilities though.My take on the whole thing is, I begrudge paying it because I think all the benefits that come from it (and there are plenty which are quite tangible) should be ours anyway...we pay enough money to the gummint now!!On the other hand, ya can't fight it, and none of the benefits would exist otherwise, because the NSW Govt. is stuffed.The trust funds in charge of the money are overseen by a group of rec anglers, and the way the money is spent is very transparent and available to the public. Here's a link, have a gander.http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/fisheries/recreational/your-fees
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I use bees wax to seal my cork grips. Get an old coffee cup and put it on a stove top with some broken up wax in it til it melts to liquid. Then just paint it on with a small brush. It gives a very grippy finish whether your hands are wet dry or slimy. Have four light spin rods and 3 fly rods all with this treatment, been using them for years no probs.Must be bees wax though, not parrafin wax. Got the idea from Ian Millers Aust. rod builder book. Smells nice too.
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Love the DIY stuff. Here's a few pics of my livey tank, may give some of you a few ideas. Got this tank from Bunnings for about $25, it's some sort of mop bucket lol or something, comes with hinged lid and all.Mounted it outside the boat, doesn't take up any room there, and water overflow drains straight into sea. The odd shape of it fits the pod on the back of the Poly perfectly, which was a bonus. Have it mounted to transom by a sheet of polycarbonate which slides into a couple of slides so it is easily removable.
http://www.fishyorkepeninsula.com/images/attachments/6Z5PWluP__bait_tank_from_boat_Small.JPG[/img]
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Seeing as there is no NSW interstate section I'll put this here.Thought it may be of interest. Pics were in local Newcastle paper 2 weekends ago. School of Salmon shown at Swansea beach. These fish have been around for months now, and we are all having plenty of fun with them. Quite often a resident White shark following them around also, and last Sunday, I witnessed 2 whales going ballistic right in amongst the action, only about 500 metres offshore, feeding on the bait the Salmon are feeding on I assume.Top pic shows the chanel entrance to Lake Macquarie, fish are right in the corner of beach where it meets the breakwall.Click on the pics to enlarge, bit grainy, but you get the idea.
http://www.fishyorkepeninsula.com/images/attachments/hngJGq0R__blackies_slamon_2_Small.jpg[/img]
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I agree with niftrev RE: gluing tips on. Shops use the hot glue, but 5 min ute araldite is better and can still be melted if the tip needs replacing again. Don't use 24 hour Araldite, nothing will ever remove a broken tip glued on with that stuff.
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Nice Kings Addict!!That skinny one, would be interested to know if it had any worms or parasites in it's flesh causing it to lose condition.I live in Newcastle now, and we get the occasional one like that, and they sometimes have a big worm coiled up in the flesh.If it's any help to anyone, I used to see some big Kings at Second Valley while Squidding off the wharf there, they would come and monster our Squid, but it's been a long time since I left Adelaide.
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Don't make me click on the "report to moderator" link.Do it the AUSSIE way,pour half a stubbie onto heated plates and scrub with newspaper,never failed yet
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Not a big fan of them. They can reduce casting distance, and depending on the design of the reel, they can get out of sync with where the line is on the spool after a cast. The less moving parts the better.After a while laying line with your thumb becomes second nature, don't even have to think about it.
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surfmaster 1 (Small).JPG[/attachment:2e9km1cx]
surfmaster 2 (Small).JPG[/attachment:2e9km1cx]surfmaster 3 (Small).JPG[/attachment:2e9km1cx]Took a few pics of the reel. In case you don't know I live in Newcastle, NSW.If anyone collects these things, PM me, I'm sure something could be worked out. Sorry if any PMs did not go through, or weren't received, I think the forum upgrade had something to do with it. -
PM sent Spiny.
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If anyone is interested (Spiny?) I spotted a Surfmaster reel in a Cash Converters shop, 5 minutes walk from my place today. It looks almost identical to a Seascape, they have $45 on it. Not bad nick by the looks. Correction, just had another look today $40. Similar to the one presently showing on page 10 of reelwidow, except not anodised, and has a spring loaded bar across the front of it (casting aid?)
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That's fascinating stuff Spiny. I had no idea so many people had a crack at making reels in Aust. A lot of them are a simple sidecast design. Ranger, they tell me Seascapes had a couple of models, the Major and the Minor ( sounds like a Pommy car ). The Minor having a narrower spool. Later some reels had a red anodised spool.
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Found out a little bit about you reel Ranger, but not a lot. A guy on our local fishing site here had a relative who actually worked at Wallsend Eng.The high speed ( 6 to 1 ) reels came later in production and were stainless steel.Production ceased altogether around 1977.The reels were quite good in their time, but they had no cast control built in, and the drag was poor. The gearing was reasonably sturdy, although many reels were "blown up" on some big Tuna and other speedsters.They sold for around $35 in the 70s.If I hear any more I will pass it on.
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Being a Newcastle boy these days Ranger, I will put the feelers out about that reel. I believe the higher ratio version was an after sale mod supplied by the maker initially. Very occasionaly you see one turn up in second hand shops here, although haven't seen one for years now.
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Yeah mate, for the boat go fibreglass, but with good quality Fuji guides. I think Wilson use good kilwell blanks ( made in NZ ) If you do any livebaiting you want a beefy rod but with a light whippy tip, otherwise the motion of the boat with the rod in a holder will tear the hook out of your bait. If not livebaiting, just find something with a medium taper, that feels right.
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Hey fishum, I used to be right into this subject, and keep up with all the latest developments.Things were easy once, at least with the 2 Aust. blank manufacturers, Snyder and Butterworth. They had a very detailed catalogue of their products which made choice pretty straight forward. All the blank model codes meant something e.g. MT4120 = a multi taper blank, 4 wraps of fibreglass and 120 inches long. The catalogue would also specify what line class suited this blank best, and also the optimum casting weight in ounces.That's blanks I'm talking about. Off the shelf rods are a different story, although some of them, if you look close, will have the line class and casting weight printed somewhere above the foregrip. Personally I'm very suss of a lot of off the shelf rods as there are a lot of asian made blanks of dubious quality used in them.There are only 3 main types of construction used, Graphite (or carbon), fibreglass and a composite of the two with the graphite part usually being in the lower 2/3 rds.The thing with graphite is that it is expensive, but makes a much better rod if casting is to be the rods main task. If casting is not a big priority then good old fibreglass is just as good, and cheaper and more robust. The old Ugly sticks had a great reputation, but in truth the solid tip (as opposed to hollow ) was just a cheap way to manufacture the blank. Never the less they were good blanks for general purpose fishing.If you just want a general purpose boat/jetty rod, fibreglass is fine, it's slightly heavier than graphite, but cheaper and much less fragile. But try to find a rod which has been made by a known quality blank manufacturer. The best way to pick a rod is to pick it up in the shop and put a bit of a bend in it by putting the tip end down on the floor, guides up (prefferably on carpet) and just get a feel for it. I can hear the tackle shop guys squirming here, but hey, bad luck boys. All you need worry about is the punters sticking the rods in your overhead fans. See if there is any specs printed on the rod as to it's line class and casting wieght. The rods taper should become evident here, slow medium or fast. ie is it like a crowbar with a wet noodle on the end? (fast taper) or is does it bend gradually all the way from the tip through to the grips? (slow taper). Nothing wrong with waving a few rods around and bending them in the shop, even if it does make the guyts behind the counter a little nervous.
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Dabilda, I had almost exactly the same thing happen to a 7' Albagraph spin rod. The rod was leaning up against a wall and fell over at the exact moment the wind blew a door shut on it. 9 inches gone off the tip.Luckily the break was between two guides. I had a short piece of old graphite rod about 40 mm long, and glued that in place as a splint on the outside. That was 12 years ago, and it's still going strong, and to be honest it made no difference to the feel of the rod. It looks a little bit daggy, but who cares, it's one sweet rod.
Tuna at Outer Harbour
in General Fishing
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