fishnuts

tonyb wrote: Thanks Tony,It's too much trouble to tie stuff forsale mate, it kind of takes away the enjoyment I get from tying flies , it makes it seem like work. I'm going to try some bead heads next.Goldy it's called CLEAR CURE GOO as in the title. It costs about $50.00 for the full setup including the UV light plus the extras I bought too. When you consider a pack of Devcon 2 pack epoxy costs about $30.00 now and goes yellow after about 1 month, this stuff is worth every cent.For $100.00 I've got enough gear to tie hundreds of flies. You do you use abit more on saltwter flies but it's still

G'day All you trouties,This is the first lot of trout flies I've tied besides a few nymphs so I thought I'd knock up some Buzzers and give them a coat of Clear Cure Goo. I'm liking using this stuff more and more. It's easy to use and is setup in seconds with the UV light. Great stuff and definately easier to use than 2 part epoxy. Cheers Darren

It is true fellas and it hurts real bad. Here in OZ we pay top dollar for our Loomis gear and for them to do this is, friggin bullshit.I am glad I only have 1 Loomis as I said but I was going to get myself a nice 7wt GLX Cross current which will now become an even more attractive Sage TCX 7wt .Rollcast you are right, that's exactly how the Expediter Warranty was working, it's ashame as it was a very good deal and one that made Loomis an even better rod to buy as you always had backup if you broke your rod while you were away. The price has been giong up over the last couple of years as it ac

G'day Guys,I don't know if this effects spin and baitcaster rods but it sure as hell effects flyrods from G-Loomis. In their infinate wisdom now that Dumpfy sports has taken over the distribution of ALL G-Loomis gear in this country they have decided to up the costs of their Expeditor Warranty. The prices for GLX model rods has gone from $200 to between $417 to $490 to have your broken rod replaced under this program. I for one am glad I only have 1 G-Loomis rod to worry about breaking and I will not be buying any more. That makes them very expensive tomato stakes if you do have the misfortune

rangfish wrote: G'day RangfishMate they are tied nearly the same except you don't have to mess around with the plastic carapace stage. That is replaced with a coating of Clear Cure Goo which is a UV REACTING EPOXY. You can also use a 2 part 5 minute epoxy but you will have to rotate it until the epoxy sets. Hope this helps.Cheers Darren

rollcast wrote: Thanks guy's,I tricked you this time Rollcast it's not Fuzzle dub .I wanted the legs to have a bit more of a reflective quality to them so I used BMS Blend. The flies carry the colour well. Now all we have to do is wait for the bream to get rid of the Lockjaw and I can go have some fun.Cheers Darren

Been messing around with some Clear Cure Goo and making some prawns to toss around when I build my new 2wt flyrod. They are tied on size 8 Mustad S71ss s hooks and weigh nearly nothing. Should be able to knock some bream and whiting over with these I hope :silly:.Cheers Darren

marriemb wrote: The rod is a Temple Fork Outfitters TiCrX 7wt and the reel is a Nautilus Featherweight 7 plus that I imported from the U.S.A. as you can't buy them here. My favourite line is a Rio Lumalux Stiped Bass Intermediate and when fishing deeper I use a Scientific Angler Striper IV. Cheers Darren

Nice bit of kit mate, enjoy.Cheers Darren

urhookedfish wrote: I agree but the only problem with fishing with that little Kiwi bugger is he keeps jumping ahead of you and knocking off all the good spots first. Cheers Darren

Skudded wrote: We already do mate, it's called "The Rod Shop" in the Forum section.Cheers Darren

Rangfish,Coonta is right on the money, Samuari blanks are very nice budget sticks. The SX001 and 002 are a good rod for the beginner to have a play with and they are not expensive. I've built the SX001 into a very nice 7' flyrod that I use from the kayak. That particular blank is very adaptable.Cheers Darren

Here she is all dry and after a test cast in the park she's ready for a fish or two tomorrow. She throws a nice line, well as good as my skills go anyway and I'm happy with the way the whole rod turned out. Cheers DarrenTo everyone who has read this post I hope it helps a few of you out when it comes to building your first rod and if it does please share your results with the rest of us. For all the positive encouragement from everyone, thankyou. Enjoy.Cheers Darren

vb4me wrote: Thanks VB glad you enjoyed it. Now to christen it in the next few days.Cheers Darren

Today I did the epoxy and for the benefit of the newbies I'll try and explain this process as best I can with also maybe a tip or two.Now the rods been bound up and ready to go for the epoxy finish. The first thing you want to do is MAKE SURE ALL THE GUIDES ARE IN ALIGNMENT and where you want them and they are all burnished with no gaps in the thread. They can be knocked out while you are binding on the other guides so I ALWAYS recheck them. With the rod all checked we are ready to start thinking about the epoxy finish.For newcomers the epoxy finishing of a rod can look daunting when you reali

After a hectic week I'm back on track and the rod is all rolled up and ready for the epoxy job tomorrow morning.The winding check is just given a light sand and then with just a smidgen of glue it's stuck down on top of the cork grip, then it's just a matter of binding in your trims and then binding on the hook keeper over the top. This is also how you would attach a guide to a trolling rod e.t.c. after you have put all the trims into an underbind for that guide. The underbind acts as a cushion so that the guide feet don't harm the blank when making baitcasting and trolling rods e.t.c. Once th

Matty,You have a kayak don't you if my memory serves me right. If you are just looking for some practice hit westlakes or the top end of the Port for as many samon trout as you can catch. They are fun and they put up a fair tussle. There is also a chance you may even get some bream. They both make for great species to practice on and it's better than chucking the line around in a park. I've been getting meter long mullies over summer with a 7wt so I think the gear you have as a start up setup will see you well looked after.Cheers Darren

Deposits paid and ready to rock and roll Cheers Darren

Thanks guys,It's added to the build time taking photos e.t.c. but it's been a bit of fun putting it together. Hopefully I'll have this all finished by the middle of the week.Coonta I've built rods and tied flies for longer than I care to remember and your right on the money. When you catch a decent fish on something you have crafted yourself it's very rewarding. I put this post together to hopefully help some others achieve this aswell.Cheers Darren

Ok guys here is some of the tools I use for my setup.Chinagraph pencil,hobby knife with a fine blade, ruler, file,scissors, burnishing tool and a very simple thread tensioner that I made from some 1/4" threaded rod, small spring and some washers and nuts. The eyelets are what you put the thread through so it gets guided onto the rod nice and straight.Also here is the rollers that I use and they are just simple small nylon wheels bolted through some aluminium angle and screwed to some wooden blocks that can be moved along some more smaller angle on the rod rack base. I always put masking tape o

G'day VB, Maybe the mods could sticky it later, I didn't know if a flyrod build would interest many but at the end of the day it's the same process no matter what rod you are building.Flea keep watching mate and you can start that rod blank I gave you to build.Cheers Darren

I'm building myself a new Sage TCX 5wt blank and thought I'd put up the process I follow so some of the first time rodbuilders can have some pictures e.t.c. to follow and maybe this might help them along.First up if your blank comes with dots on it to show you where the backbone or belly of the rod is check them to make sure they are correct, on most flyrods these marks indicate the belly of the blank but not always. The two butt sections of most flyrods are a bit too stiff to check but you can still do this by putting the ferrule section onto a hard surface and put a slight bend into this sec

Good point Matt but I don't just fish Westlakes and it's not clear water everywhere. I have had a reply from Dan that says they have played around with the rattle and they have tried to get the rattle suspend feature working. He said it still could be done. I reckon in most lures it's good to have the choice between the two as in dirty water rattles make a difference , well that's what I've experienced. I hope they can work it out and also add to the colour selection. Like you I'd also like a Ghost Ayu, good colour for schoolie mullies too . Cheers Darren .

samboman wrote: No harm in having both Sambo . Good tip about the vibes too mate, might have to try that. Do you have many hook up misses by doing this.Cheers Darren

Ranger wrote: Just putting it out there at the moment Ranger to see if others think the same as me or am I just the one that thinks like this . Cheers Darren