plankton

Until you get an "educated" thumb and can cast an overhead without any overruns then you're better off sticking with mono, braid is very unforgiving and birdnests can become quite expensive. Once you're casting well braid is much better for lure fishing imo.

Hey bjorn, if you need some rig bits for those pulley rigs I can help you out, can show you how I tie mine as well.

That's very interesting, I may have to come to a casting session in the parklands and check one of those Poseidons out someday. Thanks.

I have thought about it, wouldn't be hard to remove the low mount reel seat and shrink tube the butt. One thing I wasn't sure about was whether I'd have to move any guides though. Any thoughts?

Cheers storm boy, I know about the SA rods (I'm on ASF) but unfortunately I cast reel up. I do have a few suitable rods, just can't understand why big companies like Daiwa don't offer us a suitable overhead option when they already have them available internationally

Good solid reels, basically a TLD with a levelwind. If you plan on using the reel for live or dead bait from a boat then you won't go wrong with one of those. If it's for beach use then I wouldn't go for a lever drag or levelwind.

Never used the newer 7000i reels, but I remember them getting heaps of bad reviews when they came out several years back. Depending on what line test you want to use and whether you can get away with no levelwind, for a bit more money there are better options. The Penn squall reels are brilliant (have cast with them and planning on buying one soon), I think the star drag models go for around $170 and I know Fishing Wholesalers can get them for you. I'm also a fan of Daiwa Sealine X (I own three) and the older Slosh reels, harder to source here but possibly a bit less $ than the Pen

Yes I agree, I don't like fishing for mullies with a rod that is really stiff in the tip. I had an older 11'4" Sensor overhead that I found to be too light to handle 6oz and a decent bait, so I sold it. Don't have any experience with the threadline versions. I do still own another, lighter 11'4" overhead Sensor that is an awesome rod. Strangely it was the first model they stopped making. I guess my point was that the models of Sensor Surfs Daiwa are offering don't seem to be all that useful. Usually when people opt for overhead rods in the surf they're using them on heavier outfits

Looks like Daiwa has upgraded the Sensor Surf series, and they're finally offering a model that looks like it will handle a 6oz sinker and big bait. They're also now offering a whopping two overhead models. http://www.daiwafishing.com.au/sensor-surf-izm/ Unfortunately for me, the new heavy rod is not one of the overhead models, but it could become popular with the threadline crew, provided it's not insanely stiff. A bit long for my liking too at 15'. The two overhead models are puzzling, one being an 8'6" and fairly lightweight, the other 11'6" and a bit heavier. Reading the litt

Damn, I almost tried Hallet Cove today for a landbased salmon/squid session. Might have to break out the kayak next weekend. Thanks Southie.

WHERE WHERE WHERE??? I've been trying to get some the last few weekends but can't get a touch. In the past I've had good sessions this time of year, and I've got some new surface lures to try out as well. Hopefully the season's not over yet...

Symetres are great reels and a good value (I own 4 of them), but the rod they pair them with in the BCF combo is crap if you ask me. Best value for a good graphite stick are the Daiwa generation blacks, IMO.

Fished Southport with some lures for awhile this morning, nothing. Then tried the Porties jetty for some squid, nothing. Had another flick at my local beach on the way home, nothing. Maybe I should have tried the river for some bream or mullies.

I really need to stop chasing salmon and get out on the river. Too many fish, not enough time.

I have used braid on overheads for years, not as much since moving here, but heaps back in the US. You mention flicking around 60g metal slugs, I assume for salmon? Beach or boat? 20-30lb would work well, depends on the size reel and it's capacity, but 30 certainly wouldn't be too heavy. On a 6500 Abu I have generally used 50lb for similar work. For overheads I prefer a true braid, not a fused line like Fireline. I have had good experiences with Cortland, Power Pro and Jerry Brown.

The UK Hooks moulds are very nice and turn out great sinkers, but they're not cheap. Here's a link to another source in NZ that seems more resonable, http://www.discountfishingsupplies.co.nz/shop/sinker-moulds-c-141.html? You also need to source some stainless steel wire for the grapnel prongs and tail loops.

I've been using a slim beauty for awhile now, but the way I learned to tie it is a bit different to most ways I've seen online, my version is a bit slimmer, easier to tie and seems strong enough. I used to use a uni to uni but I found I was having to retie often as the knot gets pretty beat up going through the guides.

Yes, great stuff, will most likely replace power pro for me. I see that R&A's are now selling it, but you'll do better price wise getting it from overseas.

Some great advice there, Underpants. It really is quite easy to do yourself. Gotta love the design of those Slammers, engineered as simply as possible, absolutely no unnecessary parts, very little will go wrong with them and if it does it's easy to fix. One trick with threadlines, especially ones you might wade with or fish in the surf, is this. For many years I have been using boat trailer wheel bearing grease to fill the entire reel body. In this way if it does get splashed or even dunked it is much more difficult for water to pentrate the reel and sand has very little chance of find

Glad the links are helping Underpants, Alan Tani is a cool guy, even though his business is servicing reels he has put up all that free information for people wanting to do it themselves.

If you're at all mechanically inclined servicing your own reels is quite simple. Here's a few good sites with information. For really good tutorials on servicing many different reels and general info, http://alantani.com/ A comprehensive collection of reel schematics, http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/

I really like Fireline and use it on most of my threadline reels, for overheads I prefer a proper braided line. Depending on how much you have on the reel, you can take it off and reverse it as usually the stuff down deeper doesn't have as much wear. If you only put on a 125yd spool then probably not.

Light does attract baitfish and predatory fish take advantage of artificially lit areas because they know there will be baitfish there. Fishing around bridges and jetties can be great as larger predatory fish hide in the shadows and ambush the baitfish congregating under the light. The problem comes when you accidently light up an area where predators aren't expecting it and you scare them away. I've found that you can actually see a great deal at night without the aid of any light, and if light is needed then a low red light is usually sufficient. If you do use a bright white light then

Be careful, too much light on the beach will scare away the fish. Also, everytime you turn on a white light it ruins your night vision. I use a very basic headlamp that uses two red LEDs or three white ones. For most fishing applications like rebaiting, tieing knots, unhooking fish, etc. the red light is more than ample and doesn't affect my vision when I shut it off. If I need more light, especially away from the water, like walking off the beach, I use the white light. I see so many people on the beach with their area lit up like a city, and they wonder why they're not catching any f

not doing anything wrong mate, that's the right rig, but as you know somedays things just don't work the way they're meant to, that's why we call it fishing not catching you can also use an sp on a hook in the place of the popper, works well sometimes