peatop

Best to avoid the politics and just enjoy the fishing Micky,plenty of keyboard worriers out there pushing some agenda 

I buy most of my gear online, when i buy in the shop it's 90% at my local tackle shop where i get really good service, i do buy from BCF and Anaconda but only when they are on sale in a big way like ugly stik gold for $50 or 3 zman packs for $20, i find Dinga can be have really good sales on reels and their normal price is often cheaper than anywhere else, some others i get good service from are Mo tackle, davos, mikes, and ottos some items you can avoid postage by buying from ottos on ebay, im very reluctant to buy gear on ebay unless it's recommend or im after junk, if it's not from a well know store, i now buy my braid from an ebay store, it's very good quality Japanese braid, the last delivery was a 2000m spool of 40lb 0.28mm depth finder for about $40 delivered, this store was recommended.

I was trying to explain a set of wheels i made for my old yak on a post Softy has started, and thought rather than hijack his post i would post it here.
I got this design from vic kayak fishing (vyak.net), used items. 2 green machine wheels  (kmart $8 each), a length of 12mm allthread, 4 m12 nuts and washers for axel, a length of 25mm ID high pressure pvc pipe, 4 pvc T joiners one 10mm waterproof yoga matt (high density) pvc cleaner and glue, a 1 ltr tin tarzan grip or similar glue. Optional 25mm dowel, to strengthen axel in pvc and spaces as required.
Note the bottom T peices could be attached 90° this is where you would glue a peice of dowel in each side of the frame (and inside the cross peice) to support the axel, the risers must pass though the top of the scupper so you can put a stopper though to stop the wheels falling out when lifting the yak.
When gluing the foam on, both sufaces must clean have glue on them, allow the glue to dry to tacky before joining, then just wrap them around until your happy with the diameter of the wheel, the diameter you require must be taken into consideration when making the frame, make the first secion (risers to first cross member then put this in your upturned yak to measure the spaces for the second (axel) cross member, pay attention when gluing, as once you join the peices they can't be taken apart, when you have worked out the diameter of you wheels thus the hight of the spacer peices, now decide whether you are adding spacers inside the axel cross member or not, as a guide under 20kg you shouldn't need them, if your going to be dragging you 20kg yak and gear over rough terrain then have the T peices on the flat and have one or two spaces inside the cross member and one in the outside of each T peice.
How much padding? The yoga matt padding has to advantages, to increase the diameter of the wheels and make them soft enough to cushion the ride, the bigger the diameter the easier it is to move the trolly, the padding makes it easier to move the trolly over rough terrain, but there's no need going rediculously big on the diameter  (remember it still needs to fit in the car)
Hope this explains the how to 😉

I was trying to explain a set of wheels i made for my old yak on a post Softy has started, and thought rather than hijack his post i would post it here.
I got this design from vic kayak fishing (vyak.net), used items. 2 green machine wheels  (kmart $8 each), a length of 12mm allthread, 4 m12 nuts and washers for axel, a length of 25mm ID high pressure pvc pipe, 4 pvc T joiners one 10mm waterproof yoga matt (high density) pvc cleaner and glue, a 1 ltr tin tarzan grip or similar glue. Optional 25mm dowel, to strengthen axel in pvc and spaces as required.
Note the bottom T peices could be attached 90° this is where you would glue a peice of dowel in each side of the frame (and inside the cross peice) to support the axel, the risers must pass though the top of the scupper so you can put a stopper though to stop the wheels falling out when lifting the yak.
When gluing the foam on, both sufaces must clean have glue on them, allow the glue to dry to tacky before joining, then just wrap them around until your happy with the diameter of the wheel, the diameter you require must be taken into consideration when making the frame, make the first secion (risers to first cross member then put this in your upturned yak to measure the spaces for the second (axel) cross member, pay attention when gluing, as once you join the peices they can't be taken apart, when you have worked out the diameter of you wheels thus the hight of the spacer peices, now decide whether you are adding spacers inside the axel cross member or not, as a guide under 20kg you shouldn't need them, if your going to be dragging you 20kg yak and gear over rough terrain then have the T peices on the flat and have one or two spaces inside the cross member and one in the outside of each T peice.
How much padding? The yoga matt padding has to advantages, to increase the diameter of the wheels and make them soft enough to cushion the ride, the bigger the diameter the easier it is to move the trolly, the padding makes it easier to move the trolly over rough terrain, but there's no need going rediculously big on the diameter  (remember it still needs to fit in the car)
Hope this explains the how to 😉

I was trying to explain a set of wheels i made for my old yak on a post Softy has started, and thought rather than hijack his post i would post it here.
I got this design from vic kayak fishing (vyak.net), used items. 2 green machine wheels  (kmart $8 each), a length of 12mm allthread, 4 m12 nuts and washers for axel, a length of 25mm ID high pressure pvc pipe, 4 pvc T joiners one 10mm waterproof yoga matt (high density) pvc cleaner and glue, a 1 ltr tin tarzan grip or similar glue. Optional 25mm dowel, to strengthen axel in pvc and spaces as required.
Note the bottom T peices could be attached 90° this is where you would glue a peice of dowel in each side of the frame (and inside the cross peice) to support the axel, the risers must pass though the top of the scupper so you can put a stopper though to stop the wheels falling out when lifting the yak.
When gluing the foam on, both sufaces must clean have glue on them, allow the glue to dry to tacky before joining, then just wrap them around until your happy with the diameter of the wheel, the diameter you require must be taken into consideration when making the frame, make the first secion (risers to first cross member then put this in your upturned yak to measure the spaces for the second (axel) cross member, pay attention when gluing, as once you join the peices they can't be taken apart, when you have worked out the diameter of you wheels thus the hight of the spacer peices, now decide whether you are adding spacers inside the axel cross member or not, as a guide under 20kg you shouldn't need them, if your going to be dragging you 20kg yak and gear over rough terrain then have the T peices on the flat and have one or two spaces inside the cross member and one in the outside of each T peice.
How much padding? The yoga matt padding has to advantages, to increase the diameter of the wheels and make them soft enough to cushion the ride, the bigger the diameter the easier it is to move the trolly, the padding makes it easier to move the trolly over rough terrain, but there's no need going rediculously big on the diameter  (remember it still needs to fit in the car)
Hope this explains the how to 😉

I was trying to explain a set of wheels i made for my old yak on a post Softy has started, and thought rather than hijack his post i would post it here.
I got this design from vic kayak fishing (vyak.net), used items. 2 green machine wheels  (kmart $8 each), a length of 12mm allthread, 4 m12 nuts and washers for axel, a length of 25mm ID high pressure pvc pipe, 4 pvc T joiners one 10mm waterproof yoga matt (high density) pvc cleaner and glue, a 1 ltr tin tarzan grip or similar glue. Optional 25mm dowel, to strengthen axel in pvc and spaces as required.
Note the bottom T peices could be attached 90° this is where you would glue a peice of dowel in each side of the frame (and inside the cross peice) to support the axel, the risers must pass though the top of the scupper so you can put a stopper though to stop the wheels falling out when lifting the yak.
When gluing the foam on, both sufaces must clean have glue on them, allow the glue to dry to tacky before joining, then just wrap them around until your happy with the diameter of the wheel, the diameter you require must be taken into consideration when making the frame, make the first secion (risers to first cross member then put this in your upturned yak to measure the spaces for the second (axel) cross member, pay attention when gluing, as once you join the peices they can't be taken apart, when you have worked out the diameter of you wheels thus the hight of the spacer peices, now decide whether you are adding spacers inside the axel cross member or not, as a guide under 20kg you shouldn't need them, if your going to be dragging you 20kg yak and gear over rough terrain then have the T peices on the flat and have one or two spaces inside the cross member and one in the outside of each T peice.
How much padding? The yoga matt padding has to advantages, to increase the diameter of the wheels and make them soft enough to cushion the ride, the bigger the diameter the easier it is to move the trolly, the padding makes it easier to move the trolly over rough terrain, but there's no need going rediculously big on the diameter  (remember it still needs to fit in the car)
Hope this explains the how to 😉

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