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stupid questions about bearings? overhead rods? berley? bibs?


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stupid question time, but if I dont ask I will never know I guess. I am looking at buying some new toys and in looking I have found somethings I am unsure aboutwhat does it mean when a reel has more or less bearings?how can I tell the difference in a 'normal' rod and an overhead rod? (obviously just a rod, not with a reel attached) and what are the good and bad points?what are different berleys used for? like pollard, pre-mix, pellets?what are the different bibs for on lures? I think the longer the deeper? but the different angles they are on must be for a different reason?

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Hey mate, nothing wrong with asking questions when you're just learning.A reel with more bearings will generally be smoother and stronger when reeling and fighting fish.Rods designed for use with spinning or threadline reels will have larger guides, especially the ones closer to the reel to accomodate the line coming off the spool during a cast. Rods designed for use with conventional or overhead reels will have more guides and they will be smaller in diameter. Spinning (threadline) setups are much easier to cast with when you are just starting out.There are different berleys for different types of fish and fishing.The angle of the bib on a lure will affect how deep the lure dives.

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so spinning or thread line would be what I have. think a slang name for them is 'eggbeater'? and overhead will be more for dropping straight down rather than casting out? and they are the only real stand out ways to spot an overhead rod? because I dont want to buy the wrong one and look like a fool :( even tho asking stupid questions does that for me, lol.what is pollard used for? and the pre-mix? I only ever use the pellets as I just thought they were all I needed till I thought about the different typesand the bigger the angle the bib is dropping down the sharper it will dive? and the larger the bib the deeper it will go?

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Yep an eggbeater/ spinning reel is where u have a 'bail arm " that you open to free the line before you cat, then close to stop the line.Overheads and baitcasters can take a while to learn the techniques for casting without having tangles happen, due to the way their centre spool revolves to let the line out.In a nut shell, after casting one, as the sinker slows its flight, the spool trys to follow its original speed, resulting in loops of line feeding back under each other on the spool, causing whats called a birds nest, and theyre often not pretty either :S :pinch: :laugh: Pollard is sometimes used to help bind up mince meat when making up a mix for mullet, but can also be scattered on the surface to attract them or other fish like tommies and Garfish ;) Pellets will do the same thing, but as they dont float are usually dispersed via a berley pot in some current . Some people find buying plain cheicken pellets and adding some tuna oil is a cheaper option too.Bibs on lures is an interesting topic that I'm not sure I know a lot about, so hopefully someone else can explain

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If you're looking at rods' date=' these days most have "spin", "o/head" or "baitcast" written on them. Eg. Sahara graphite 732 6-8kg spin means it is 7feet, 3inches long, 2 piece, suits 6 to 8kg line and that it is designed to be used with an eggbeater/spin/threadline reel[/quote']Most overhead rods will also have 9 guides where as spin rods will have 7 or less.Spin - big guides that sit out from the rod, less guides.picairrusas661m7.jpgOverhead - small guides nestled in close to rod, more guides.mustad2.jpg
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yeah' date=' thanks, I understand that. was wondering more about what jackblack86 meant on the comment before your 1st one... but I am unsure how to do a reply but with someones comment :([/quote']Ah! My bad, sorry. :blush: Just hit the quote button under their post and it will come up like that ^
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yeah' date=' thanks' date=' I understand that. was wondering more about what jackblack86 meant on the comment before your 1st one... but I am unsure how to do a reply but with someones comment :([/quote'']Ah! My bad, sorry. :blush: Just hit the quote button under their post and it will come up like that ^
ohh, sweet!!! thanks :)
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Plankton has coveredthe majority of it....When looking at a rod take note of the section where you mount the reel' date=' that'll be a dead giveaway for which type of rod it is[/quote']how will the section show me what type of rod it is? any specific thing I should be looking for?
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Plankton has coveredthe majority of it....When looking at a rod take note of the section where you mount the reel' date=' that'll be a dead giveaway for which type of rod it is[/quote']how will the section show me what type of rod it is? any specific thing I should be looking for?
not sure if the reel seat will automatically give away the designated use of the rod, if thats what jackbkack is refering to.others here have explained it better. when you are buying take your reel in with you and ask at the shop, they will help you out.also remember length is important depending on where you are going to fish. if fishing land based then a longer rod is handier. boats accomodate shorter rods. land based i would pick an 8 foot rod (or there abouts), not too long or too short. the majority of rods i own are all 7 foot as i use them from shore and a boat, so need a length to suit both, although 7 foot can be a bit short for land based.berley, pellets are good for both bottom and surface berley. for the bottom just throw them in as they are around the area you intend to fish, taking current etc into account.if you want a surface berley or aa slower sinking type then before you go fishing add some water to your pellets in a bucket , the pellets will slowly soften and after an hour or so they will become mushy. it helps to give them a bit of a mix.not too much water as it will be too runny. treat it like you're making dough for bread.i like to add a few slices of bread to this and mix it all in, then just throw it out where you are fishing for a slower sinking , better dispersing berley.nick
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I think a lot of people put too much thought into their burley, and worry too much about the ingredients.Burley is only something to put a smell into the water, and get the fish feeding.For burley, use whatever you have on hand, ie: cat food, corn flakes, fish frames, crab shells, prawn heads, old pilchards, sardines, left over bait, bread, etc, etc....raid the wifes pantry and you'll certainly come up with some handy ingredients.Mix it up with some fish oil and you are in business.The important thing with burley is to have the burley where you want it, and the "densities" of the ingredients.For example, if you are surface fishing for gar, it's no point having a dense burley sitting on the bottom.....use cereal based ingredients (breads, grains, bran, pollard, etc) which will float near the surface.If you are bottom fishing for whiting, you need to get the burley down to the bottom, so use dense ingredients (cockle shells, crab shell, etc) or get the burley into a burley bomb to take it down to where you want it.A good all round burley to cover the entire water column (surface to sea floor) will contain a mixture of different densities (ie: crab shells which sink to the bottom, fish flesh which suspends mid water, cereals which float near the surface). The fish oil will create a smelly slick, which helps transfer the burley smell over a larger area.I always include some of the bait I will be using in my burley mix.The wife will show endless appreciation of the newfound interest you show in her new food processor....brownie points for you!Then it's just important to keep the burley going in a steady trail (regular small amounts...you are enticing them NOT feeding them) so the fish can follow it to you and your boat. If you allow a break in the burley trail, it will have the reverse effect, the fish will get confused when the reach the end of the scent and instead follow the smell off and away from you.The number of bearings in a reel generally denote quality. The more bearings the higher the quality and the smoother the reel......this is debatable though, as there are exceptions between manufacturers.Threadlines are "generally" designed for lighter game and ease of use.Overheads are heavy duty for larger game and harder to use.I think the rods have been covered pretty well, as has bib size on lures.There are no silly questions.....just silly fishermen! ;)

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The number of bearings in a reel generally denote quality. The more bearings the higher the quality and the smoother the reel......this is debatable though' date=' as there are exceptions between manufacturers.[/quote']Yes very debatable. Some of the rubbish you can buy on ebay for $20 or $30 have 8 or 10 ball bearings. Don't be fooled that there is any quality to be had there.
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Trace line and leader are one and the same.Basically it's the last 50cm or so of your line, the business end. Sometimes, depending on the type of fishing you are doing you might want to use a heavier or lighter trace line than your main line.Here is a great article on leader line and why you should use it: http://www.seabreeze.com.au/Articles/Fishing/Which-leader-line-should-I-use-and-why_5227183.aspx

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awesome!!! think thats why I was confused, I thought they were the same thing but since there was a different name for them I was still a little unsure. seems like half the people I ask in person have different 'slang' names for everything, which makes it a bit hard to take everything in.cheers heaps mate. really do appreciate the help!!!

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awesome!!! think thats why I was confused' date=' I thought they were the same thing but since there was a different name for them I was still a little unsure. seems like half the people I ask in person have different 'slang' names for everything, which makes it a bit hard to take everything in.[/quote']Quite often you will find that people that use Lures will call it a Leader, and people baitfishing will call their rig a Trace Line. Say you are looking for a Spool of "Leader" Material though and it is say 40lb Black Magic Leader. That is still the same and able to be used for your "Trace Line." Cheers TT
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Yes and no. You can use ordinary line as a leader if you're just making a rig for say, garfish or whiting or if you're attaching a simple lure for Salmon. Sometimes I even just cut a meter off my main line to use for a rig.Other types of 'specialty' fishing, bream for example, you would probably use a fluorocarbon leader line as it's much harder to see under water and better for bream because they're a bit fussy.Sometimes you might want to use a heaver leader, say 10 - 20lb heavier than your main line if you're chasing toothy's like Snook.There are different lines for different jobs and you'll pick up more as you try out different things.

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Great to see you asking lots of things you were at first embaressed to ask :clap: Better to ask a "silly" question rather than be embaressed sat not knowing when u need to :whistle: Plus as the saying goes, we all have to start somewhere ;) Have you thought of buying a hardcover easy reference type book ?I have a book here called "The Complete Fishing Bible" by Alistair McGlashan that has reference sections on pretty much every aspect of fishing that you're likely to encounter without even getting your hands dirty or smelly ;)http://www.booktopia.com.au/the-complete-fishing-bible/prod9781742570822.html?gclid=CIW9weGBrbACFUIkpQodom1aUg

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ohh, ok. I thought wire was what to use for the toothy critters.yeah I have checked some books out, and have a few (including the 'fishing for dummies pocket edition', haha) but to be honest, the "in detail" books I dont really understand a fair bit of. I think once I know the meaning to more of the words the books will help a lot more

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