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Yorky

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  1. Like
    Yorky got a reaction from yellow door 1 in Innovative Ideas Man   
    They once were a commercial item, don’t know if their still available 



  2. Like
    Yorky got a reaction from Des in Innovative Ideas Man   
    They once were a commercial item, don’t know if their still available 



  3. Haha
    Yorky got a reaction from Hunter69 in Innovative Ideas Man   
    They once were a commercial item, don’t know if their still available 



  4. Like
    Yorky got a reaction from Des in Knot help please   
    I'm usually using the FG knot, If I need the knot to go through the guides it's always the FG knot if it doesn't need to go through the guides I will sometimes use the double uni. 
    I'm using braid pretty much for all my fishing these days & when I'm fishing from the beach/surf & hefting out lures or big baits I tie a leader long enough to go onto the spool that way it's mono on the finger & not braid when casting, this requires the FG knot as it has to go past the bail roller
    Yorky
  5. Like
    Yorky got a reaction from Rybak in Snelled Ganged Hooks   
    @Rybak That is the same way I tie mine, quick, easy & haven't had a failure 👍👍
     
    Cheers
    Yorky
  6. Like
    Yorky reacted to Rybak in Snelled Ganged Hooks   
    IMG_3214-compressed.MOV
  7. Like
    Yorky reacted to MAH in Land based Squid help   
    I love squid fishing and mainly fish land based, but also get out in the kayak.
    As others have mentioned, structure is the key for squid (and basically all fish). If there is a sandy bottom, there is little chance of squid. Wert is spot on, seagrass, reefy bottom, rocky shoreline are the places to fish. For metro spots, you can certainly catch squid at OH. Most people fish the channel/northern side of the OH rockwall, but if fishing the southern side for something like garfish, it's always worth having a jig on hand as you get squid cruising along rockwall face (just not as many).
    For metro jetties, Brighton is the most prolific, but also it gets packed (I personally don't like to fish Brighton jetty). Glenelg jetty also produces good catches of squid, just head to end, there is plenty of seagrass to attract squid. This is my local and in the warmer months I regularly have good catches.
    I personally believe a good long rod is a key part of success when land based fishing. Most of the metro spots are heavily fished, so if you have a nice long rod and can cast a bit further than the blokes standing next to you, not only can you cover more territory each cast/retrieve, but you will be potentially dropping your jig in front of a squid that others haven't been able to reach. I use an 8'9" Daiwa Emeraldas.
    Another thing to consider is the sink rate of your jigs. Squid mainly take a jig on the drop, and close to the bottom. I find I often need to add some extra weight (chin sinker) when fishing Glenelg as the tidal movement can make it hard to get the jig down deep enough. If fishing shallow areas like Marino Rocks, Point Riley or Tickera, it's worth packing some shallow sinking jigs, to give you a bit more time on the drop.
    I've posted before on the topic of land based squid fishing, with info on My Squid Rig, and a couple of reports on Glenelg catches, Inkfest and Inkfest 2
  8. Like
    Yorky reacted to Des in VISION versus VIBES   
    VISON versus VIBES
    I was fishing the Northern Sandflats yesterday.
    The whiting fishing was a bit slow, so I quickly shifted my attention to Flathead.
    There was something on my mind. I was curious to know. Which sensory stimulus was most likely to attract a Flathead strike?
    .
    I lean to vision being the most important sense that a Flathead employs in hunting prey. As all my successful Flathead fishing has relied on placing my offering in a highly visible “Strike Zone” above their eyes …  unconventionally under a float.
    Yes I have taken the occasional Flathead, on a bloodworm intended for whiting, while trolling and dragging it along the bottom in sand. And I have caught a few Flathead, bouncing blades and vibe lures, across the sand. Again while targeting whiting. But these have always been incidental catches. Nonetheless, Vibes and movement along the bottom has produced the occasional result.
    I have tried fishing the bottom for Flathead with a lot of intent and effort. Using blades as well as an array of soft plastics. Working, bouncing and retrieving my offering across the sand in front of Flathead. Success has been minimal when relying on vibrations and bottom movement. Where as capitalising on their sharp vision by keeping my presentation, above their eyes under a float has been enormously successful.
    .
    I was keen to explore this further.
    I was starting to assume that bounces, shakes and vibrations, meant little and it was all about vision. Flathead had a dysfunctional lateral line. Very little feel for vibrations, jiggles or bounces.
    I asked the S. A. Flathead Guru and “Doctor of Yellow Fin Whiting” Bill Goh from Adeliade Uni. His reply:
    .
    “ the flathead’s lateral line is very pronounced (even hard to get the scales off), and it is orientated closer to the top (dorsal). So when a flathead digs itself in, the lateral line is more exposed.“  https://www.facebook.com/groups/970345633507487/permalink/1095174604357922/
    Maybe I had underestimated the effect of vibrations with Flathead. Now there was no option but to have a head to head comparison for the two senses in the one session, using the two different techniques. Floating a soft Plastic below a float (VISION) versus Bouncing, jigging and vibrating a paddle tail plastic along the bottom (VIBES) .
    .
    THE TEST
    Berkley Jerkshad 120mm was in the “VISION” corner, Versus Squidgies Bio Tough Paddle Tail 100mm in the “VIBE” corner.

     
    Overcast skies yesterday, I felt would be putting the “Visual” presentation at a disadvantage. From the Flathead’s view looking up, there would not be as strong and contrasting a silhouette against dark clouds.
    .
    The test did not need to be conducted too long. The slender fish like Jerkshad suspended under a float got all the fish! I am sure the most important sense for a Flathead is Vision. Make your offer most visual and obvious for the best results. I chose to use a float to do this.

    TERRAIN
    Is it all about the Habitat and Terrain?
    On the Northern Sand Flats of the upper S.A. Gulfs, the terrain plays a most important role. With the bigger tide movements of the upper Gulfs, I find most Flathead in the faster tidal flow areas. Usually in weed filled channels, broken weed beds with sand patches, and along weed lines. Occasionally slightly reefy patches. But always in a high tidal flow area. The Southern Bluespotted Flathead, (Platycephalus Speculator) seems to love sitting in or around some structure, rather than being buried in an open sandy area, which occasionally happens.
    I prefer fishing the run off tide. With the draining run off tide, baitfish get concentrated into these areas of structure. The easiest and most trouble free, snag free, way of covering this terrain, with the best visibility … is under a float.
    .
    This terrain and heavy weed growth restricts the Flathead’s vision to a mainly upward line of sight. Making its hunting heavily reliant on its vision, in this habitat. The terrain and heavy weed growth would also somewhat dampen any of the other stimulating senses.
    .
    Yesterday I managed 2 Flathead at 61cm and another 3 in the mid 40s. Along with half a dozen whiting in the low 30s.

     
    It was a great day. It could have been brilliant if I had not lost a further 2 good fish today. Both bust offs. They get very angry in shallow water! I am still using my ultra light and well worn whiting lure gear and line. Time to step up and gear up seriously to target these guys over Autumn.
    .
    Cheers and Tight lines, Des



     
     
  9. Like
    Yorky reacted to Meppstas in My second best trout of the 2021/22 season. (short video)   
    This is just a short video of the second best trout that I've caught in a river this season. I took a gamble filming it with my Canon camera while holding the trout rod in my left hand, thankfully the trout made it into the net. It certainly tested out the fine (0.15mm diameter) Platypus Pulse ultra thin 4lb premium mono line too.
    Thanks for watching.. This video is HD  make sure you change setting to suit..
    cheers Adrian.
     
     
  10. Like
    Yorky reacted to Des in FLOAT FISHING FLATHEAD   
    BYCATCH to MAIN CATCH … Season’s Change to FLATHEAD
    .
    I have picked up a Flathead on each of my last 4 Yellow Fin Whiting lure sessions.
    There are still plenty of YFW about for the whiting bait angler, however they have slowed up for the whiting lure fisherman.
    The water is cooling a bit for YFW on lures. But is also the reason for the increasing presence of the Flathead.
    The cooler Autumn water temperatures now have the ambient conditions to hold a larger number of baitfish in the shallows.
    And along with the baitfish arrive a lot more Flathead, in these cooler waters of Autumn.
    .
    UNCONVENTIONAL TACTICS
    I have always taken a skeptical view, of some assertions made by some fishing experts.
    It’s best to do your own trials and testing and arrive at what works for you … for the areas that you fish.
    There are claims of many must do techniques. Most based, I feel on false assumptions. And in the main anglers have quietly and benignly accepted them.
    With Yellow Fin Whiting there was even an ‘expert” that asserted a surface lure mimicked a fleeing Benthic (bottom) dwelling Clicker on the surface !!!  All fishing techniques have to consider the target species, their morphology, behavioural traits, their prey and the habitat in which it has all evolved. So when it comes to some “expert” techniques, it must measure up against these factors. When Flathead fishing with soft plastics, people have often claimed; “Always bounce the soft plastic in the sand to create a puff of sand to attract a Flathead”
    … Nah! Nah! Nah! Never !!!! This has a detrimental affect, when I fish wading the shallow sandflats.
    .
    I employ some unconventional tactics for catching Flathead  … I float fish them.
    Do not bother bouncing lures along the sand. I have FLIP-SIDED the whole concept and suspend Soft Plastics and Bait under a Float. Always presenting them above the Flathead’s eyes !!  It is where they can see it the easiest and react the most. Their Strike zone. Their area of Binocular vision.
    .
    Having viewed underwater footage of FH taking soft plastics. I noticed they were repetitively taken at the top of the lift when the SP was bounced. Always well above and out in front of their eyes. In their “Binocular Vision Strike Zone”. So I decided I may as well put my Soft Plastics there in the first place. Drawing it past them … under a float.  I do not use any jig-heads.
    .
    Some more alert experts are now agreeing, that in fact disturbing the sand in front of Flathead is counter productive.
    Karl Attenborough of the “Sand Flat Fishing Australia”  YouTube channel says:  “Touching the sand with your lure in shallow water spooks the fish.”
    Refer: 9.35min in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2NHJ02NUoiQ
    Or in this Doc Lures Podcast : https://doclures.com/nsw-mid-north-coast-flathead-attenborough/  … Refer ~ 17min 10sec onwards.
    .
    As fisher-people we are always trying to present, a favourite food in the most irresistible and obvious manner, to our target species.
    I have been floating Baits, Gulp Minnows and Jerk Shads under a small split turnip float for a long time. With great success.
    .

    MORPHOLOGY
    Prey usually have eyes on the sides of their head so they have a large field of view, from which to avoid predators. Predators usually have eyes in front of their head so they have better depth perception.  Benthic predators, like Flathead have eyes arranged so they have a binocular view of what is above them as they lie on the bottom. Their field of vision is strongly biased to a bait or lure being presented out front and above them. Rather than it bouncing in the sand ahead of them.
    These great videos clearly illustrate the Flathead eye placement and function:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nC7Ig4NJmtE
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrCjZJWGFHI
    .


     
    HABITAT
    The other most important factor for using floating baits and lures is the sandflat Habitat in which the Flathead hold.
    In the upper gulf sandflats that I fish, Flathead are most often found on;  broken weedy ground, in and alongside weed filled channels, or alongside mangrove edges full of aerial roots. Here they lay and wait to ambush any prey that passes above. It is very hard to get a weed free, snag free retrieve over this terrain. So the most effective method is to present and draw a bait or lure over them, suspended under a float. There are some suitable floating lures, but their trebles foul easily on the floating ribbon weed.
     
    Flathead most commonly lie on the leeward side of a weed hump or structure in a strong run off. I rarely come across them on clear open sand flats. They have a preference for the bigger and faster run off tides. I find the best strategy is an overhead bait/lure presentation, suspended by a float, drawn across their likely lies behind structure.
     
    The weed line or “blue line” which can also channel a stronger flow of water, will also hold them. The irregular weed line will frequently obstruct and hide your lure if you are working the bottom. Under a float, your offering can easily work, over, across, in and out of the weed line, with out fouling. Weedless rigs worked lower are never as effective for me.
    .
    RIGS & LURES
    Today the very successful floating Glide baits and swim bait lures, do exactly that, swim above the eyes of the Flathead. Stay out of the weed and never touch the sand. I have yet to given them a try.
    My favourite lure is Rapala Shadow Rap a floating lure with a small bib and a shallow dive.
    It is interesting to note how many Flathead have been taken on a floating Squid jig.
    But I have taken the most Flathead (along with X Large YFW) on Soft Plastic Minnows or Jerkshads simply fed onto a #4 long shank hook that I have been using for YFW.  under a float.



    Tight Lines.
    Cheers, Des







  11. Like
    Yorky reacted to MAH in Southern Garfish - Feeding Habits of South Australian Populations.   
    This information is based on the Honours thesis undertaken by Jason Earl in 2007, through Flinders University. All credit goes Jason for this knowledge.
    The information is based upon samples of southern sea garfish that were collected at two locations in Gulf St. Vincent between March and July 2007. Most sampling was conducted at Port Parham, while fewer samples were also taken from Bay of Shoals, Kangaroo Island. Garfish were sampled for this study in two ways: they were purchased from commercial fishers after haul-net capture; and captured at night using dab nets. Hook and line were not used to capture the fish, as the use of foreign dietary items such as burley and bait would have disrupted the analysis of dietary composition. A total of 20 sampling events were undertaken.
    The study found that the size of the mouth’s gape, the length of the beak and gut length were all proportional to fish size and these proportions are consistent over time, which does not suggest a major change in the feeding biology from juvenile stages through to adulthood.
    The primary dietary components identified were seagrasses of the family Zosteraceae and planktonic amphipods.
    Seagrasses were consumed in much greater volume than any other dietary item, followed by amphipods that were also consumed in high volumes. The high volumes of seagrass, may be due to the low nutritional value of seagrass and the inefficient digestion. To compensate for this, southern sea garfish may have to continually consume seagrass to maintain adequate nutrient absorption. Examining the gut contents showed the green, heavily macerated condition of the seagrass was consistently fresh throughout the entire study suggesting that rather than consuming floating detached seagrass fronds, as previously documented , the species may be grazing on live fronds. This assumption is supported by the observations of a commercial fisherman of Port Parham who regularly observed the species actively swimming through live fronds of the zosteraceaen seagrass beds in the area. If this is actually occurring it suggests that the fish are actively biting off seagrass fronds.
    Other invertebrates such as polychaetes, insects and other crustaceans were a regular part of the diet, but only in smaller volumes.
    Southern sea garfish appear to be selectively choosing their main dietary components, of zosteracean seagrass and amphipods.
    Given the diversity of algae and different species of seagrasses distributed throughout the inter- and subtidal areas of the northern Gulf St. Vincent, the garfish that were sampled had exclusively consumed Zosteraceaen seagrasses.
    Similarly, plankton tows that were done in the main sampling area at Port Parham revealed many types of hyperbenthic invertebrates available for consumption, yet the consistent consumption of large volumes of amphipods suggests that they were selected by the fish over other food.
    The feeding patterns of southern sea garfish followed a strong diurnal cycle; consuming seagrass fronds during the day, to predation of hyperbenthic planktonic invertebrates during the night. The shift from seagrass, which is an unlimited, highly accessible resource, to the nocturnal consumption of invertebrates, coincided with significantly higher abundances of invertebrates in the water column during the night. Hyperbenthic invertebrate species occupy seagrass beds or the sediment during the day to avoid predation and then migrate vertically up into the water column during the night, to facilitate feeding and reproduction.
    The study was conducted over autumn and winter and throughout both seasons the diets were dominated by seagrass during the day, before shifting to planktonic invertebrates during the night. Amphipods were the main invertebrates consumed during the night in both seasons while ostracods, cumaceans and nereidid polychaetes were also consumed at various stages. The most significant difference in dietary composition between seasons was the consumption of cirratulid polychaete worms during the early hours of the morning during winter. This species of worm was not apparent in the guts during autumn, but during winter was a very important component of the diet. It is not known whether the worms were excavated by the fish from the substrate or had migrated into the water column.
    The feeding habits of the South Australian population of garfish are consistent with the findings for the Victorian population, however comparison between the diets of fish from Port Parham and Kangaroo Island provided some indication for regional variation. While nocturnal predation of amphipods was evident at midnight in fish captured from Port Parham, samples obtained from The Bay of Shoals, Kangaroo Island at the same time of the night contained large volumes of zosteracean seagrass and indicates the results from one area are not directly applicable to other areas where the availability of dietary components may differ.
  12. Like
    Yorky reacted to MAH in Southern Garfish - Best Baits. Can You Match the Hatch?   
    A common principle of fishing is to try and match the hatch, or in other words, use bait that is the same or similar to the target fish diet; but considering the primary dietary components of southern garfish are seagrasses of the family Zosteraceae and planktonic amphipods, it's not really possible.
    Instead, generations of fishos have used substitute baits for southern garfish including;
    maggots bread chicken slivers of garfish Which bait to use seems to be a personal preference (I stick with maggots and chicken).
    Maggots
    Maggots are probably the most common bait used for southern garfish. Apart from the "yuk" factor at the thought of maggots, they are a great bait to have on hand, they don't, smell, they last for months in the fridge and you get a tub of approx 350 maggots for $6-$8. When fishing maggots, they also stay on the hook well and it takes quite a few bites before you need to re-bait.
    Bread
    Cheap! Readily available. Can be used both as bait and soaked in water for burley. If you have non-fishing partner, they will not complain about bread in the house (as opposed to a tub of maggots). Downside to bread is you need to re-bait more regularly.
    Chicken
    It was an old timer on Largs Pier that taught me about chicken for garfish (he also fished off the bottom, not under a float). He used chicken breast, so I have always used chicken breast. Once you have bought the chicken, put into the freezer. When you want to go fishing take it out before, let it partially defrost, so it makes easier to cut even thin slices. I like to take these slices and pat dry with paper towel, to remove as much moisture as possible (the more moisture you remove, the firm it will be and it will stay on the hook better). Next, take the slices and cut them into small slithers ready for your hooks, then put in a container with some breadcrumbs (the breadcrumbs absorb more water and add to the burley trail when fishing). Sometimes I will put some tuna oil on the slithers before adding to breadcrumbs. This is a great bait to have on hand, it's cheap, readily available, you can keep it in the freezer and not yuk out anyone else in the house.
    Slivers of Garfish
    I've never tried this, but I've heard good reports of taking a few slivers off the first garfish you catch and using this as bait. This is suggested as a way to mix up your bait if the garfish are being timid.
  13. Like
    Yorky reacted to Des in LURE OBSESSIVE   
    LURE OBSESSIVE
    Okay! I am a little crazy about lure fishing Yellow Fin Whiting.
    I need to have at least a couple, if not more, wading & casting sessions a week.
    But the obsession does not stop when I am out of the water.
    I have rarely, in recent years, fished a single lure straight out of the box.
    Every lure needs to be tinkered with and modified.
      
    I and a few others are starting to think, tinkering, modifications, and multiple lure options are starting to be a necessity to ensure ongoing success when lure fishing YFW.
    There is some anecdotal evidence that fish learn and are conditioned by their experiences.
    They will soon avoid those dangerous items (lures) that have caused distress and have taken away some of their school mates.  Especially in the heavily fished locations.
    Lure fishing may well cull all the risk taking aggressive fish. Or those with a higher metabolic rate. Leaving behind in the gene pool only the fish with the “timid cautious genes.”
    You will continually have to change things up, present new options, to keep fooling them.
    Little wonder there is always a new wave of super successful lure, shape, UV finish, Colour finish, material, etc, etc.
      
    Well respected fishing writer and fishing product designer Steve Starling “Starlo” wrote back in March 2015, in the “Fishing Monthly Magazine” an article titled “Sticking it to Whiting on Top”
    He wrote:  “In the places where I fish, bigger whiting (which are quite old fish) have now seen a lot of poppers, and I find they can be rather suspicious of them. Stick baits are more subtle and sneaky and seem able to go on catching these more ‘educated’ whiting season after season.”
      http://www.fishingmonthly.com.au/Articles/Display/17914-Sticking-it-to-whiting-on-top
    We have seen the waning of the “Popper” lure’s effectiveness and the rise of “Stickbait” lures over the last 7 years.
    Now how educated are those bigger older fish to Stick baits, after 7 years of experience? Will they avoid Stickbaits soon?
    Blades and Vibes have since arrived on the YFW scene and they have been amazingly successful on YFW.
    The Stick baits have now got bigger and bigger. And the bigger lures I find are proving to be more successful.
    I recently got some Daiwa Slippery Dogs in their new larger 97cm size. For me, this has been Daiwa’s best lure yet for YFW.
    How will lure designs for YFW progress? What are the adaptions we need to make to our lures?
    How do we keep our offering new and fresh? We will always be trying to out smart these ever smarter YFW.

       - A Variety used in these sessions.
     
    Here is a run down of some lures types I use and some lure modifications I make  ..... 
     POPPERS
    A floating lure. They have a big cupped mouth, which when retrieved makes a big splash. They are a “look at me! LOOK AT MOI !!!” noisy lure that I still find successful in choppier windy conditions. When your lure has to compete with the chop on the water to catch their attention. The fish are less visually discerning with their obscured view in these windy conditions.
    These lures need to be worked, with a higher rod position and a constant retrieve to maintain a continuous bloop and splash.
    I use Atomic Hardz, Shimano Bresnious Rise, Bassday Backfire, mainly.

      
    STICKBAITS
    Also floating lures, known for their “Walk the Dog Action” or Zig Zag Glide actions across the surface of the water. Dependent on the vigour of your retrieve. These are my most effective lures.
    There are usually in a pencil like shape. They may be a more bellied shape on some. On retrieval they move in a zig zagging fashion across the water surface.
    These lures are very easy to work. Especially if you have the right ultra light, sensitive tipped, fast action rod. It’s automatic!
    Some, as is the case with the Sugapen and Daiwa Slippery Dog, have a very small cup face that provides a slight forward splash.
    I use Bassday Sugapen mostly, but also Zipbaits Fakie Dogs, Daiwa Slippery Dogs, occasionally Fish Candy Skinny Dog and Berkley Scum Dog. A kennel of lures !!!!
      
       - My Favourite Stickbait Sugapen95 Col# MB16
     
    HYBRIDS
    Again floating lures. Basically the longer Stickbait pencil body with a larger cupped popper mouth. They are very versatile in variety of conditions, but never seem dominant in any situation. Due to their larger cupped face they provide enough splash to be effective in choppy conditions as well as “Walk the Dog” in calmer conditions. On their day they can work when fish are turning up their nose at the Stickbaits. Again a very easy lure to work. I use Zipbaits Skinny Pop, MMD Splash Prawn, occasionally a Berkley Pop Dog
      
       - Zipbaits Skinny Pop at work
     
    SIZE MATTERS
    As a general rule I find the bigger lures catch bigger fish. Especially in windier conditions. In very calm conditions I use smaller lures, like a Jackson Ebi Panic, Sugapen 70, or Berkley Pop Dog. I avoid calm conditions if I can help it. I much prefer the windier days with long down wind casts working over more water.
    The larger Daiwa Slippery Dogs in the 97cm size, is proving to be Daiwa’s most successful YFW lure for me.
    Zipbaits Skinny Pop 90 way out fish the smaller Skinny Pop Jr 70mm. Their Fakie Dog 70mm is also way better than the 50mm
    I use the various sizes of the Sugapen to suit a variety of wind conditions. My favourite is the 95mm size as it suits the most frequent wind conditions in which I fish. The Sugapen70mm for glassy and light winds (0-5 knots). 95mm in moderate winds (5-15 knots). 120mm in stronger winds with heavy chop (15+ knots)
      
       - A size range and suitable wind conditions. 
     
    BLADES and SUBSURFACE LURES
    These don’t float! There are a few subsurface lures for YFW. Like StrikePro Blades, Zipbaits Zoea, but IMO none are better than the Ecogear ZX Blades. They flutter, vibrate and hop along the sand beds much in the way a Clicker or prawn would flee. They are so easy to work. Use a constant rolling retrieve. Feel the vibes of the lure. No vibes means there is some weed attached on it.
    A hop or two adds excitement. A pause can often find a Flathead latching on.
    They are made from metal and lead. Can cast long distances and into the wind easily. This is the lure I give to the lure fishing newbies. Their only drawback is bouncing along the bottom they can easily pick up weed. if you get a clear run they are very effective.
    In deeper channels and cooler water conditions, when fish are too lethargic to come to the surface, these will see them out fish all the surface lures. Ecogear ZX, in the biggest 43mm size is my go too. TT and StrikePro blades, I have not given as much time in the water, but I have taken a couple of YFW and Flathead on them.
      
    ASSIST HOOKS
    Never use Trebles. I immediately remove all the trebles from a lure. They catch too much weed. And too many fingers as well.
    The standard size trebles fitted on the lures are always an overkill for the small mouthed YFW anyway. If you want to retain the trebles you should downsize them. My favourite treble for this class of lure is the Daichi Death Trap #10.
    Sharpness is a key factor for consistent hook ups. The fine gauge of the smaller assists provide penetrating needle sharpness.
    On all the slightly larger lures it is possible to mount assist hooks both in the middle and on the rear.
    The Ecogear ZX assist hooks, sitting in the middle of a stickbait lure I feel provides a good resemblance to a bunch of dangling prawn legs. The rubber “legs” dangling around your hooks also act as a weed guard deflecting weed off your hook. The YFW hit these middle assists with surprising frequency. I think aiming to disable their prey prior to feeding. My preferred size is the “Small” size Ecogear ZX Assist. There is now an increasing number of options available. Some of the better ones I have tried are Oceans Legacy and Shinto.
    On the rear mount of the lure I most often use the Atomic Trick Bitz in size 8 attached with a few extra split rings.
    There are less lures “thrown” by the fish when using assists. The flexible joint/connection with multiple split rings, does not provide the fish any leverage, to throw the hook. On Blades try a double set of assists. A combination of Trick Bitz and ZX, on blades and vibes ensure you get an inescapable, multi hook - hook up.
      
       - Extra Assist hooks added to the Ecogear ZX43 blades
     

       -  A Few Assist hook options and placement on lures.
    SPLIT RINGS
    It may seem an innocuous little item of no importance, yet it has had a major impact on my catch rate.
    Initially I experienced a lot of chasers, swoops, swipes, strikes and slurps at the back of the lure from YFW.
    I kept a record of how many follows and strikes I had, versus the hook ups. It was a disappointing rate of hook ups.
    It always felt like the hooks were frustratingly just that little bit too far away, out of reach, from the fish’s mouth.
    So I used the extra split rings to allow the assist hooks to hang back a bit further and weigh down slightly lower towards the rising fish.
    There was also extra swing behind the zig zagging “walk the dog” lure in a whiplashing fashion.
    It has made a huge difference in my hook up rate. I use the Owner fine wire size #2 split rings.
    “ It don’t mean a TING if ain’t got that swing” … Doo aah, doo aah, doo aah !!!!
      
       - The results of a few extra Split Rings.
     
    WEIGHTS - Stick on
    Add stick on weights to some of those smaller lures to add to their casting weight. It will give your small lures a longer cast.
    On the open sand flats the longer retrieve from a longer cast will always catch you a lot more fish.
    They can be used to favourably adjust the balance of the lure and how it sits in the water.
      

       - Lures modified with weights. 
    PAINTS - COLOUR
    I am a very poor artist. But the YFW are not discerning art critics. Don’t be afraid of adding some of your own colour to a lure. I use paint markers. Readily available in various colours and thicknesses.
    You can remove it with a bit of methylated spirits and change colours at will.
    It has worked for me. Bringing success with an otherwise dud lure colour.
    There are lure blanks available to do your own customised paint work.
    The most successful lure colours for me have a fair amount of translucency and some orange to red toning.
    UV enhanced colours and materials have proved to be more successful in low light conditions.

        - My primitive adaption ... IT WORKED!
      
    ADDED ATTRACTANTS
    UV sprays have proved to be effective on overcast days. It has brought a quiet session to life for me.
    No worries if you don’t have UV lures on you. A Spray on UV coating can convert your standard lure to a UV lure.
    Scents? … I think they work? At least they have not put any fish off! I have used them without any definitive results.
    It probably is more effective with a slower moving and pausing lure when Bream and Flathead fishing.
    Those fish get more of a chance to have a sniff of the lure. I have noticed better results when using slow retrieved blades with added S Factor scent.
    Scents have less impact with the faster, continuous moving surface lures for YFW. Yet I continue to use it now and again. No harm.
      
     
          - Added Extras
     
    LEADERS and SNAPS
    Floating or sinking leader line? I think this is only a factor with the smaller floating lures.
    Using bigger lures most of the time, it does not affect me as much. I use both, with no noticeable difference.
    Always remove the standard connecting split ring on the nose of a lure. A Direct stiffer connection to your lure is best for the most responsive lure action that you want for YFW.
    I hate wasting time in the water, repetitively tying on lures so I use a lure clip for lure changes. Over time I have used a variety of lure clips. To date, the Decoy Spiral Snap is the lightest, fastest and easiest to use. Most secure, and most responsive for lure action.

        - A Few of many snaps tried. Decoy Spiral Snap works best for me.
      
    LURE STORAGE
    The reversible lure storage boxes which provide an individual storage recess for each lure is a must.
    With all those dangling assist hooks any combined storage of lures end up into a fused tangled mass.

       -  Double sided lure boxes for a session  ... Too many choices !
      
    TOOLS
    All this fiddly lure tinkering is going to drive you mad or blind, if you don’t have the right tools.
    The best split ring pliers are the ones with the skinniest, pointiest nose on them. You will need to poke them into some very small split rings.
    Along side that a standard type narrow long nose pliers for holding those tiny rings. Think … jewellery workshop tools.
    The Mustad long nose, split ring pliers have served me well. And should it really get fiddly out come the Pincet/Tweezers for micro split rings. These days there are a few options for micro split ring tools by Daiwa, Halco and Samaki as well.

        -  The obsession out of the water !
     
    Hope this is helpful in fast tracking you towards the pleasures of lure fishing YFW
     
    Tight Lines!
    Cheers, Des
  14. Like
    Yorky reacted to Des in Transfer of FB Yellow Fin Whiting Posts   
    Steadily retrieving some of my previous old FB posts. 
    You will probably see a couple of my YFW related posts going up every week.
    Cheers, Des
  15. Like
    Yorky got a reaction from Des in Wind Knots   
    Agree 👍
    The only time I don't use a swivel is casting light lures i:e; Yellowfin lures, with these I use a small clip without swivel but if I am changing over to bait fishing I have a swivel on my rig that I attach the small clip to, that way I can switch between bait & lures without cutting or re-tying or having to worry about the bait spinning & creating line twist when retrieving. 
    Other than this I will not fish without a swivel somewhere in my line. I use the swivel to prevent line twist as I find it easier to not get the twist than to try & get the twist out.
    When talking swivels I am talking quality swivels, rolling, crane, ball bearing, depending on the application, not cheap S**t that doesn't spin.
    Yorky
  16. Like
    Yorky got a reaction from Wert in Wind Knots   
    Agree 👍
    The only time I don't use a swivel is casting light lures i:e; Yellowfin lures, with these I use a small clip without swivel but if I am changing over to bait fishing I have a swivel on my rig that I attach the small clip to, that way I can switch between bait & lures without cutting or re-tying or having to worry about the bait spinning & creating line twist when retrieving. 
    Other than this I will not fish without a swivel somewhere in my line. I use the swivel to prevent line twist as I find it easier to not get the twist than to try & get the twist out.
    When talking swivels I am talking quality swivels, rolling, crane, ball bearing, depending on the application, not cheap S**t that doesn't spin.
    Yorky
  17. Like
    Yorky reacted to yellow door 1 in Wind Knots   
    There are also guys that swear that manually closing the bail arm after each cast (instead of tripping it by using the reel handle) is a good idea.

    The explanation Ive heard is because you take on loose line and it adds a half twist every time you do it.

    Ive always manually closed the bail arm. So I havent got to experience the issues related to using the reel handle to do it. But I am very cautious not to take on loose line while coming up tight to my lure
     
  18. Like
    Yorky reacted to Wert in Wind Knots   
    Yep, it probably is a combination of everything, the shim thing for sure, as a kid I'd even make my own (well pre braid) for an even lay, my Grandfather taught me that, another thing he told me relevant to this was always have tension on the line when winding in, if you don't have weight on use your finger otherwise you get loose coils which will cause tangles.
    I still do as he taught me and have NEVER had a wind knot, I do occasionally overfill a spool though and get the same experience.....
  19. Like
    Yorky reacted to Wert in Wind Knots   
    Sorry but you're wrong, small quality rolling swivels 100% work on light braid, so do the fancy ball-bearing ones on heavier braid
    I've literally watched the swivel work as advertised many, many times when fishing in current and testing to make sure my bait doesn't spin, in fact when the swivel doesn't spin (but the bait does because I didn't quite get it right) I check to make sure it's loose because sometimes they catch, give it another go and if it doesn't work change it.
    Are they as effective on braid? No, certainly not, you won't get your line 100% twist free but they absolutely prevent serious line twist and to say that they won't work is frankly ridiculous and I can't imagine how you would be able to bait fish high current flow areas without them.
  20. Like
    Yorky got a reaction from Des in Yellow Fin Whiting Lure Fishing Gear   
    @Des That is a great write up. Couldn't agree more, The technical specs/parameters you have stated on what people should be looking at when purchasing gear are spot on and pretty much what I say on a near daily basis over summer, I can talk it all day but I don't think I could have put it in writing as well as you have.
    Great contribution 👍👍
    Cheers
    Yorky
  21. Like
    Yorky reacted to Des in Wind Knots   
    I finally got my issues sorted today.
    It took some unspooling and re spooling in the park. ( and a tangled Labradoodle 😒)
    I did replace the only shim in the reel, with the skinniest version I had.
    I also used several small swivels above the weight to ensure I removed any line twist when winding back on.
    I had a suspicion the store machine may have put in a bit of line twist, As they initially did not put enough backing on. So they unwound and rewound the new line. That may have contributed to the problem. However rewinding the spool several times with extra swivels seems to have ensured it was removed.
    Casting trouble free for now. 👍
     
  22. Like
    Yorky reacted to Des in Yellow Fin Whiting Lure Fishing Gear   
    Yellow Fin Whiting Lure Fishing Gear
    I am frequently asked to recommend YFW Lure fishing gear.
    It lead me to summarise my thoughts on what I consider to be the most important factors in your gear selection for this particular pursuit.
    My suggestions are in a prioritised list. Starting with what I consider to be the most important bit of gear to the least important based on how I feel it will impact on your success with YFW lure fishing. I am sure my opinions will raise a healthy debate!
    So what are your thoughts on the perfect set up and the most important factor?
     
    1) ROD
    Absolutely the most important item in this game. This should be your biggest investment.
    A 7’6” rod is ideal. It can cast small lures long distances easily. Cast distance is the most important factor in successfully catching YFW on lures consistently. A long cast goes way out there amongst unsuspecting fish! It provides a long retrieve, covers more water and gives the fish the most time to be attracted to your lure. So get a rod that can cast small lures far.
    The latest materials and construction methods of the better quality ultra light rods, facilitate the storage and recoil of elastic energy, which imparts lure action almost naturally. The tip sensitivity of ultra light rods, brings a lure to life and seriously makes a lure dance with little effort. A very sensitive top section is also well matched with a powerful bottom end.
    The extra length of a 7’6” rod has very good shock absorption for the hard runs that big YFW have when they are in close. You will definitely pull less of those small assist lure hooks from these trophy fish.
    I have found the Abu Garcia Eradicator Real Finesse Rod the best I have used to date. Model# ERFS-76LT-TZ  7' 6" Rod. Rated for 0.6 - 3 lb Line Lure weight 0.1gm-12gm The whole rod weighs just 66 grams.
    The Samaki Zing Xtreme V2 762SSTXL is a close second. Rated for line 1-3kg with a Lure rating of 1 to 7gm.
    The Shimano Zodias ultra light is great for those who prefer a shorter 7ft rod.
    The Shimano T Curve Premium 21TCP782LC … 7" 8" 1-4 Kg line, 1-7gm lure. 2 pc  It is a little more powerful, which I use with the heavier lures.
    There are a lot of good ultra light options today in the 7' 2" to 7’ 6” range, rated for 1-4 Kg line, 1-10gm. At prices to suit those just starting out. But you will soon get the feel and desire for the subtle finesse improvements in the more expensive models.

    2) LURES & HOOKS
    There are lures that have a long proven record for consistently catching YFW. This is fundamentally due to their good design. They do not really need to be “worked” so much. On retrieval their natural action, imparted by a good rod, does most of the work for you … naturally.
    Bigger lures catch bigger fish I find. They also cast a lot further out to unsuspecting fish and work over more water, increasing your chances of a strike.
    Colours … nearly always Clear with some Orange. Other colours have a fast diminishing success rate and are very rarely more successful. Lures with UV colours are a bit better in low light conditions.
    The Sugapen 95 in Colour MB16 is by far the standout lure in all conditions for me. The Daiwa Slippery Dog 80 is a distant second. These Stick bait lures work better than poppers except may be on the windier days. Then I find the Shimano Brenious Rise, MMD Splash Prawn, or the Atomic Hardz, Poppers to be good.
    Blades and Vibes in prawn imitations can catch as many fish on their day. But you loose the visual pleasures of the chase and a surface strike. The Ecogear ZX ranges are by far the most successful blades.
    I never use treble hooks on the lures. They catch too much weed. My lures are all retrofitted with Atomic Trick Bitz size 8 or the Ecogear ZX Assist Hooks. They catch less weed and hook up well. A more detailed post on lures later.

    3) LINE & LEADER
    A small diameter braid is best. Braid assists in imparting more natural action and provides a better feel of your lure’s movements. I find Sunline Siglon PEx8 10 lb Braid is good. I have since moved to Sunline Siglon PEx8 ADV. I have heard some great reports for J Braid, but I am yet to try it. Again it is about getting a bit more distance in your casts. Thin lines have less drag through the air and cast further. There is little risk of abrasion on the open sand flats.
    I use a variety of leaders, both mono and fluorocarbon, as this I find is not as big an issue as some make out. Especially when using the larger floating lures whose action is less affected by the leader. Again back to the rod, a quality 7’ 6” ultra light rod with a sensitive upper section, has great shock absorption. So you do not need a lot of leader for stretch and shock absorption. Around 18” in length I find good. I also use a Decoy Spiral Snap for quick lure changes so I don’t use up leader length in retying lures.
     
    4) REEL
    Reels are often overrated in terms of their importance here I feel. Correct weight balance with your rod, a smooth sensitive drag and a smooth retrieval action would be the main functional demands. A wider or a long stroke spool provides a longer cast.
    With repetitive lure casting over long sessions, I you will appreciate a lightweight reel. A gear ratio of around 6:1 in a 2500 size reel suits the ideal lure retrieval speed. Given the harsh treatment these reels experience whilst wading for YFW, salt water resilience is important. Shimano Stradic CI4+, Shimano Vanford and Abu Garcia’s Revo MGXtreme, have all worked well for me. Should you have strong arms, strong wrists and a smaller budget, there are plenty of inexpensive heavier reel options that won’t reduce your chances of catching a fish on lures.
    5) WADING TUB or BAG
    Essential for carrying all your food, drink and tackle out there for a long day. Thanks to spotting  @Territory Lad  I added a "triple Axle" to mine.

    6) TECHNIQUE … aka … Pretentiousness
    Mostly a lot of garbage by people posturing as super skilled experts and making a simple task appear complicated.
    If you start with the right equipment it is simple and close to an automatic process. It is usually people with a substandard rod, heavy line, and inappropriate lures, that have to work so hard to achieve the right lure action. A good lure with a modern day ultra light rod almost provides the right lure action automatically. It is so easy to “work” a lure. You really don’t have to try!  The only thing you could play with is your rod height position and your retrieve speed.
     
    I hope this helps in unravelling the not that mysterious art of YFW lure fishing.
     
    Cheers, Des.
  23. Like
    Yorky reacted to Des in Transfer of FB Yellow Fin Whiting Posts   
    I look forward to all the contributions from the many YFW specialists in this forum.
    Over the coming weeks I will be transferring a number of posts regarding Yellow Fin Whiting which I had previously only put up on Face Book. (lazy)
    I look forward to us building up a knowledge base for us to share.
    The posts will not be "Fishing reports" as such but discussions about the Species, Morphology, Habitats, Ecosystems/FoodChains, Tackle and Techniques.
    Looking forward to every ones input.
    Cheers, Des
  24. Like
    Yorky reacted to Meppstas in The choice of where to fish pays off..   
    It's been a couple now due to lower back & rib problems, so I thought I'd put up a past spin session from December 2021. This video is one of many that haven't been on YouTube yet. Thanks for watching..
    ** Good news, I have now improved and now getting back into the swing of things so will have new reports coming soon..
     
    cheers
    Adrian (meppstas)
     
     
  25. Like
    Yorky reacted to Meppstas in Platypus, the joys of trout fishing.   
    This is just a short video clip of a few Platypus I often come across while trout fishing the rivers here in Tasmania. Seeing Platypus in a river while trout fishing is always the highlight of my day, it makes the trip all the more worthwhile.
    cheers Adrian (meppstas)
     
     
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