Wert

Do they all feel the same diameter also? Per above I have reservations about most specs given on braid packaging. How hard can it be to just accurately state breaking strain and diameter?

I'd believe that about the breaking strain. It's actually great value too I reckon, it does cost a bit up front but lasts for years then you reverse it, way better value than my premium mono days (platil, Ande, Platypus, maxima, ahhh the old days) where you were respooling twice a year or more. Have you tried the newer infused "adv" (I think) stuff? I've had one outfit rigged up with 20lb for about a year now, so far I'm super happy, it is still in great shape after reasonable use and definitely a bit more slippery than the regular PE8 but it'll be another 2 or 3 years until I'll kn

Braid breaking strains and diameters I'm pretty sure are allocated via a random number generator. Through much trial and error I've found siglon PE8 seems to have the most accurate stated breaking strains and is way thinner and smoother than any others rated the same so I use it because I know what I'm getting. I suspect the only true answer to this braid conundrum is do your own legwork and hopefully you find what you like. This is why I will pay a little more and shop at brick and mortar tackle shops most of the time, being able to physically touch, feel and compare before you buy

Bait remains the best option I've found, prawns are a great cockle substitute, I reckon equal to or possibly better than cockles, squid works well and pillies are surprisingly good, especially for bigger 45cm plus models, of the roughly 100 or so KGs I've caught over the last year and a bit about 10 have been 45cm+ honkers and id say about half of those were on pillie meant for other targets. If this is about saving money forget about it with SPs, leather jackets and puffers often live in the same places as KGs and will decimate your SP stash in no time, catch a squid, lose a few hooks an

Submarine?........

Fluro leaders here too, any brand on special is my favourite, have 6lb up to 80lb, I find the stiffness reduces tangles and makes patternosters in particular sit beautifully. Tying up does take practice as I find little imperfections in your knot that in mono you never noticed will always show up in fluro. Uni knots, perfection loops, Hawaiian droppers (loop or cut for a trace) and snoods all work fine you just need to practice bed them in carefully and be prepared to re-tie a few. Good luck and don't give up I reckon and I'm sure others will agree fluro is great when you get the hang of

Yeah, as David said my understanding also is it is not legal to use supermarket and the like seafood as bait even if using it from where it was harvested, that said your mussel plan is a guaranteed winner. Also SA king prawns, even at full price $30per kilo work out cheaper than pillies for the amount of baits they can produce and are the best, most versatile all around bait, easily bar none, for anything that swims in our waters from tiny slithers for gar, #6 circle sized chunks for whiting up to whole on a pair of 5/0s for snapps when we can do that again. Or so I've been told..........

Hi BTZ and welcome. You're not the first and I don't think you'll be the last to have a hard time getting attached to a mully. Without knowing where you are and whether you are boat or land based it is a bit hard to give advice though I reckon you've worked out the first good bit of mully advice, warmer months are better for catching mulloway. Sure they get caught year around and freezing cold winter nights are apparently the best time to get the monster metro mullys here in the Port but when the water temperature gets up your chances of hooking one goes up exponentially. The other

I got a very important bit of gear, particularly for a boat owner. A wallet.

If you like these check out the (I think) Ausocean under water cams, they post footage and live feeds, got a cam under old rapid bay jetty and had one at point lowly for cuttlefish breeding among others.

In my experience under 32cm KGs will eat 2 day old dog turd in the middle the day on a dodge tide, over 32cm however.... they may well be fussy but I reckon it's just a thing people say when they suck at catching them.

Cracking job there YD and basically the same reason I will never go shallow spool, for me it was a 90 something cm model that decided to eat one of the small Tommies I was catching for bait many years ago, 150yards of 8lb Sunline and a further 50m or so of 10lb melted off the spool and I saw spool. Probably only been into the backing 4 or 5 times (and been spooled twice) but when you find yourself attached to a monster you appreciate every last cm. To stop catching I push my knot in as flush as possible down low which works pretty well but that tape trick is going to be getting a run on my ree

Umm totally different scenario but let's flesh this out. I really doubt anyone is dropping $300 on a tiny finesse reel to load it with 10lb power pro, I imagine however it would hold a full 150yard spool of a quality 8 carrier 4 to 6lb braid with room for backing , also in this example even with the 10lb power pro spooled you are working the reel at 100% of it's potential rather than giving it an artificially reduced capacity by using a gimmicky shallow spool. If you get done you get done but it won't be because you opted to reduce the maximum line capacity of your chosen reel. So long story

That spool in the top pic looks almost full already, would struggle to get 50m of cobweb on that. For mine these must be 99.9% gimmick, there is zero benefit to be had which can't be offset on a regular spool by spending a couple of minutes putting on some backing, certainly nothing mentioned above as a benefit apart from set up labour, which is negligible benefit anyway, makes shallow spool better to deep in any way but the risk of being spooled by a fish of a lifetime is real unless you fish enclosed waters with zero chance of hooking a large fish that can get beyond 100m or so of you're rod

Sooo, where does the line go?

I had one of those rapala lure jigs in bright orange and it worked a treat, was slow sinking and the bib was more for action than depth after the first 50cm. Will grab one if I find one on special but for most applications the classic Oita style is a bit more practical and much sturdier. Definitely worth adding one to the collection for the egi addicts though, especially if you like casting over shallow rocks and reef land based.

I have it on good authority that BB's seafood is infact fresh local product, that squid there however......... this is the reason I rarely eat seafood I didn't catch and clean myself.

In the Port I've caught eaglies on live STs a number of times and Kelvin confirms they get up into the coorong so I reckon we can just about call it.

No tail beats, head shakes or tooth marks in the bait? Sounds very flat, black and flappy to me so I'm going with ray of some kind.

This plus keep them upside-down the whole time and it will keep the guts separate from the meat and make em heaps easier to clean.

I switch between an old Ugly Stik 3-6.5kg with a 2500 spinfisher and a TD black 3-7kg Mangrove masher rod with 2500 Sol. Both with skinny 16lb siglon. They're very different and represent my dream outfit when I was a kid and my ideal modern if it swims I'll catch it rig. I like both a lot, the newer one is light, powerful and great for all fishing, I use it all day, the old one is heavier and really only good for bait fishing but geez is it nice for that. Then there's the baitcasters.........

Not these days thanks to kids, work etc, probably around 30-40 sessions a year on average. In my late teens I at least went for a walk and flick as a minimum every day for over a year once (was my finishing yr 12 challenge) over 5 or so years fished easily over 100 days a year, its easy when you live in a small coastal town with a jetty and have no grown up responsibilities. Hopefully I am able to get back to that level of fishing in the near future, given half a chance I'd live by, or better yet, on the water and never be not fishing.

By whipping you mean the binding? You learn something new everyday. I'm not sure it is necessary, more a aesthetics thing and throwback to the old school ceramic guides you had to bind on, but it may help stop some catching and I'd 100% do it myself, have done dozens of times in fact over the years. If you don't have binding thread I'd just recycle the thread from the broken tip and use the missus' clear nail lacquer as varnish. Also you may not even need a new tip, if the old one is undamaged apart from having been attached to the snapped off part use a lighter to heat the old

I get my kids to do it, my 18yo worked it out from the manual no worries, apparently you can hook straight into WiFi or put the update on USB or SD card (can't remember which) if your WiFi might drop out.

Bloody things are everywhere, undersized whiting are probably the most common fish I catch. Agree with David that once you suss out where they hang out getting a feed isn't too hard, you can even choose between lots of smaller ones you need to get the measure out for, or fewer but much larger models you only need the camera for. Just this Saturday (glorious day) drifting around in about 3m off Port Gawler my Dad managed a 35cm model, among other stuff, on an SP, If that is a thing that can happen so close to Adelaide then they must be doing OK.