MiSCrEANT

Export costs, distributors, etc. A lot of things are expensive here in Australia, not just braid. We are far away compared to the rest of the world, and plus our population is small in contrast to other developed countries. I think platypus do a braid.

Maybe there was a small fissure deep underwater, like a small underwater earthquake. Caused the water to pour into the fissure hence the water rushing outwards. Anyways that is quite unique, must've been recorded somewhere on BOM. For me, a weird (or more-so rare) thing was watching 80cm plus snapper swim past my feet three times. Once at NH rocks, once in the old Port Reach, and once in WL. All happened last year. They were quite inquisitive and swam past me a few times before losing interest.

"Hagane" in Japanese means "Fullmetal". Marketing ploy. But same body/rotor/gear layout as the 14 Stella and thicker drive gear than the 11 Twinpower, Still a good reel, as the Twinpower range has always been.

If I do need spares there is one man that runs a reel servicing business called South Oz rods near home. I just get stuff through him and get my reels serviced by him from time to time.

Hey guys, click these links below. 2015 Saltiga: http://daiwa-fishingshow.globeride.jp/2015ss/saltiga/index.html 2015 Saltiga specs: http://daiwa-fishingshow.globeride.jp/2015ss/saltiga/spec.html And also, the new Exist. 2015 Exist http://daiwa-fishingshow.globeride.jp/2015ss/exist/index.html 2015 Exist specs: http://daiwa-fishingshow.globeride.jp/2015ss/exist/spec.html

I always spend a decent amount of terminal tackle, so I never have to worry about them. No point in spending heaps in rods and reels if you haven't got good line and hooks. The only hook brand and model I'm using for bait now is Owner Mosquitos. Resembles an octopus hook. Very sticky and to my memory haven't lost a fish after hookset. For lures it's Owner Stingers in 36.

Rod leashes are cheaper.

PE= Polyethylene. Material braided lines are made out of. Also what the Japanese system for diameters of braid (silk traditionally) is called. The number represent set diameters. This is set diameters for PE #. Breaking strength differs with different materials and material quality. What the breaking strength on the packaging is what the company states as the breaking strength. The PE # only refers to the diameter of the line only! I've lost count how many times I have explained this to people.

I've replied to this question on another forum, I'll paste it here for others to read. Number one pro about spinning fluoro; The number of strikes you get are doubled compared to 6lb or 4lb leader. Very handy for picky fish on a dead day. Has definitely made the difference between a fishless session and a fishful session. Another pro plenty of lure fisho's say is that the stretch it gives is perfect for absorbing the strikes of hard hitting fish like bream; so you don't pull trebles out of the mouth. I would agree with them. You aren't getting the sensitivity of braid, but you c

Dunno what do you want? You know yourself more than anyone else But here's what I wouldn't mind: A nice tacklebag to make life easier when fishing, nice pair of glass polarized sunnies, good pair of pliers, action camera to record moments, lip grip, etc..

PM will be sent. That's the one, I own three.

I had a look around the Pat for the first time on Sunday, great new spot for me to try. A local said that the water at the flood gates is 3.5m deep. Mulloway would definitely be there, waiting for a softplastic to flutter down... Nice report, I'll be there next Sunday.

If only Australia wasn't a crap market, we'd be getting all of the awesome stuff. In the Japanese market, there is a entire market for Ultralight Saltwater rods. Rods specifically designed to target Yellow Tail Scad. Similar to Yakkas and Slimeys here. Those rods are perfect for Gar or any small bread & butter species. But if I was to buy a rod for Gar I'd buy anything with with a superfine, sensitive tip. A UL Breamstick, trout rod, etc. I remember having a super light fiberglass rod when I was younger. Casting distance to reach Gar? I had berley for that so it wasn't an issu

If I was in that scenario I would pull out heavier gear. Or tighten up the drag or fight more aggressively or use fluorocarbon mainline. It is WA so possibly giant Australian Salmon. They pull like crazy. Thanks for sharing.

I'd go up to the XR 8 or 10. I've caught 20cm bream with XR 10 so opt for the bigger sizes if you can Replacing with larger hooks is not going to help. Adds weight and resistance so may reduce potential action.

Not bad. Didn't know that. If it helps, the Solpara range have similar blanks to the Generation Blacks. As you go up the MC range, they cost alot more here. Volkeys are like $300 here.

If you could get something for for nearly half of what it is locally, what would you choose? As a student who works part-time, I know what I would choose. A few people would be shocked to see the RRP for Castaway overseas. I find overseas markets are more refined to my fishing style. And no, not everyone will source their gear overseas like I do. I know and understand why the prices are so high though, Australia is not the best market. Apologies to Cantieknots for off-topic discussion.

How much did pay for it? The Solpara I mean. If you got it locally, I feel sorry for you...

Cantieknots, A squidding (Egi) rod is different to other rods. No so much R&D, but it does help fight squid and better casting on the jig. Egi rods are parabolic, they bend a lot more than typical rods. To absorb the lunges of squid, so the squid doesn't rip its' tentacles off. This makes the wild darting techniques of the angler easier to perform and maintain as well. Egi rods are long, most rods are around the 8'-9' in Japan. Obviously, covering more ground increases the chances of getting a squid. Egi rods have heavy cast weights, generally 16g and above. Also make

Squidding rods definite yes but reels no. All you need is something that is smooth in both retrieve and drag. It will catch as much as the Emeraldas does. Majorcraft rods you say? I own three of them. And definitely more in the future. Best value rod range in the world hands down.

I do things to prevent it. Like: -Spooling up correctly (or use of a specific tool) -Not winding line in when a fish runs -Not winding line in when you are snagged -Using a ball bearing swivel -Maintaining line rollers -Not using a lure that spins in the air while casting

I like having, buying and looking after gear but I don't really don't get to the level that I name them. Seems extremely materialistic to me. To me, fishing tackle is a tool, and nothing else. It's just that some tools are better than other tools.

For easiness of casting with baitcasters, use a line that is stiff; a line that has a body with it. If it feels too limp in your hands it's bound to give you trouble. Lines like Fireline and Power Pro are stiffer and easier to use. I have a JDM line that handles like mono, but has the strength & sensitivity of braid. (Like Fireline, but more refined) Castaway I would stay away from, 8 strand braids are way too soft & limp. Stick to 4 strand if using braids. Mono is the easiest to cast, but the sensitivity is lacking & stretch is troublesome.