coonta kinta

Probably depends on the state of decomposition, but either way I wouldnt be risking it.

Yep still a few kicking around Mate & a few of his companions bagged out on 30-35cm jobs during the week. All LB too!

Engelgyout Island NT.By far the best guided experience I've ever had.Mothershiping Princess Charelotte Bay in FNQ a close second

great idea BS designed and built by you?AFF its pretty simple the prongs are held in the fastening position by the 4mm pin easily seen in the second pic. Look closely at where the right angled prongs enter the flat plate section of the anchor......can u see the gaps?If the anchor snags, it just takes a bit of force presumably, to break the pin allowing the right angle prongs to turn unhindred allowing the whole lot to be pulled free.Simple really!

look fwd to the full report in an upcoming issue mate

Flew Qantas to Sydney, jetstar to Maroochydore, & again Brisbane to Adelaide. Rod was never allowed as carry on, had to go as cargo only and thankfully made it in one peice. Reel was stowed in the tackle bag and checked in with other luggage. I travelled with this rod in and from Malayasia and never had an issue with it coming aboard with me. It was handed to the staff on boarding and collected at the time of depature and yes this was after 911.My suggestion for rods, is to make up a tube from PVC pipe the diameter of which should be as wide as the number of rods you are taking dictates. T

Nice

rangfish wrote: the reality is it all comes down to the quality of the fittings. Your time is the constant. Better quality blank, runners, winch fitting etc, the higher the cost. Not sure of the ARM, seems they are a gary Howard blank and probably better known in Qld than here. The wilson FMT72L is probably not to bad, built on of them myself eons ago and I can see how it would work, but the samauari's are probably the pick of the bunch if the one I have is anything to go by. Prefer my 001 as an SP stick, but still throws HB ok. Think the 002 is a little stiffer and probably more suited to the

http://www.motackle.com.au/index.cfm?pr=catalogue&category_id=465 Motackle sell kits with everything included, except the thread. Price ranges from 49.95 - around $160 for bream sticks and range from samauri to wilson and ARM. But be warned its an expensive way to buy rods, can be addictive, and extreemly satisfying, especially when u land a PB, first, or meritorious capture on a stick built yourself.

pin point wrote: for the money, by the CY great value real, for a little extra I know of a couple on new caldia KIX in the low 2's

Mr_Willy wrote: If your mate is who I think it is I'd be listening to him.

Bloody Power let me down AGAIN!

Leethal wrote: hell no!

Great tutorial and pictorial Darren.Goes along way to demystifiying the whole rod building process.If you've ever thought about giving this a go guys all I can say is DO IT! Sure you can buy good sticks off the rack for less, and I'm sure Darren will agree, but its hard to beat the feeling of catching fish on something you built yourself. They mightnt always look as good as some of the rods put in these and other pages, but its not always about the looks is it?I know MOTackle have some cheap kits for budding rod builders that start from under $100.00 all thats needed from there is a bit of ima

Nice one mate, ya work looks pretty good and as VB mentioned the colour scheme looks a winner.Can atest to the biting of the bug, especially when all that hard work results in some cracking fish. You'll get far more enjoyment from them on sticks ya built yaself over the shop bought ones

coight wrote: Join the club mate, finding it real hard to pick winners this time around.

Congratulations

brenton wrote: Can you ever have too many spots B

Think Pillies mob are the adelaide agents mate

email sent

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Well done mate, looking forward to next year for our regular get away

BirdBoilerThe MagThen there is the outer & the inner as well

Reckon the lures is alright, but as sambo eludes to, might be the time of day and the technique u need to work on

rocknev wrote: Nev, to make an ever better finish, try to open where the tag end comes out a bit before cutting. Then cut the tag end as close as possible to the thread work, smooth out as mentioned and tag end is hidden. Far less chance of it burring and being unsightly when epoxied.