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Underpants

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Posts posted by Underpants

  1. I run hair rigs all the time boys, and I make my own boilies at home, or I buy them when therye available... they work great in the torrens for big carp! in the murray ive found hair rigs pretty average though, needs to be dead still water I recon... I also run pva bags when I want to get real fancy ahah. 

     

    To run hair-rigs, you need the specialty rigs and boilies stoppers, which are little plastic tabs that you insert into the hair rig loop to stop the boilie sliding off.. also need a boilie needle, to put them on... hope this makes sense! ive got photos on my photo of my rigs and baits.

     

    cheers.

     

     

     

    Sounds like you an interesting new topic there. Enlighten us all!

  2.  Boilies are buoyant, long tag is left on the hook trace

    They are drilled I think & attached to the tag end

    with a sequin or something to hold it there

    Trace is weighed down with tungsten putty or similar

    so boilie is just above the bottom with hook directly under it

    ... think that's how it goes 

     

     

    Ah that makes sense then. I know the pommies swear  by the practice but still sounds rather techical for the humble carp.

  3. Done similar with cockles & seems to work well. Stay on hooks much better (than frozen ones) and far less messy. Fish didnt seem to mind.

    Pretty simple:

    • open cockles & removed all the meat (as you would as for shoving on a hook).
    • Placed in a plastic container, in single layers, with a light cover of pool salt and leave in the fridge for a day or so.
    • Helps to lift the cockles off the bottom of the container so the brine can drain, i used a handfull of 20mm gravel and a bit of 'gutter guard'.
    • drain on some newspaper & freeze in lil zippy bags.
    • similarly save the briney goodness for burley.
    • leaving uncovered in one of those 'frost free' freezers can help dry them out further too, if desired.
  4. BBQ sauce:

    • Smoke whole tomatoes, cool & pass tru a tomato mill ( one of those Italian things that removes all skin & seeds).
    • mix  3:1 with a good worcestershire (i make my own which is pretty easy too)
    • add smoked chipotles to taste (mexican smoked jalapeno), or use your own smoked chillis
    • simmer on low heat untill desired consistancy is reached.
    • bottle as you would for jams, chutney ect.

    Awesome for pizza topping, marinating & basting on the char grill :wub: .

     

    I also do a smokey tomato sauce by smoking all the tomatoes to start with (could probably cut the onions in 1/2 and smoke them too!), using a pretty standard recipie.

    I dont skin the tomatoes or peel the onion or garlic to start with, as i run it all thru the tomato mill before botling:

     

    6 kg tomatoes

    1 kg onions

    1/2 head garlic

    900g sugar

    500 ml cider vinegar

    25g salt

    1 tbs whole cloves

    1 tbs whole allspice

    1 tbs pepper corns

    1 teaspoon chilli powder

     

    Add the chopped tomatoes, chopped onions and garlic, sugar, cayenne pepper and boil for 1 hour.

    Add the vinegar and boil until thick for about 1.5 hours. Bottle.

  5. They dont have much 'action' say like the paddle tail styles but are highly affective. Some ideas:

     

    • "Match the hatch". Whatever you recon the snook are chasing; be it gar in the seagrass or whitebait (pacific pearl ;) ) under lights, use a pastic that best approximates their prey.
    • Always fish as light a jighead as you can get away with, the Squidgy guide is a good start if you are using Flick Baits, http://www.squidgies.com.au/page1074236.aspx
    • personally wouldnt bother with S-Factor as snook are generaly pretty agressive
    • Make sure the plastic is coming quite high in the water column - snook will usually strike higher up rather than down near the bottom
    • try working the plastic back across the surface rather than the traditional 'drop & lift'.
    • persevere!
  6. You can analyse this one til the cows come home.......

     

    Neverthless you'd need to conder what base/bases you desire to cover with the particular outfit; LB, lure, bait ect.

     

    I do nearly all of my flattie & yfw wading so go for 6.6/7ft stuff. As others have suggested, longer for pure LB would be much better.

     

    I have a 1-4kg Jewel with an old Sienna 2500. Recently striped and lubed, still going strong. It has landed plenty of yfw on bait, tommies & st on lure and a few flatties on sp & pillies.

     

    Generlly dont get out much and prefer to fish occasionally, choosing amenable conditions to use my 1-3kg Fireblade & Symetre 1000 for extra fun!

  7. Ive been experiencing what i'd consider excessive line twist on my light lure casting outfit:Symetre 1000, 5lb braid & 1-3kg spin rod.

     

    I dont have the paitence to persevere when lures dont perform so i regularly change from SPs/HBs/metal casting lures ect.

     

    Generaly lazy too and use a Decoy Round Lure Snap on everything so i can change easily whenever i feel like it.

     

    Sure im 'supposed' to tie direct to SP jigheads....but i recon when im targeting STs, tommies & squid with maybe flattie bycatch they're really not fussy.

     

    I have tried the Owner Micro Snap Swivel which worked great on the metals but was crap on everything else.

     

    So i thought long and hard.....had this huge epiphany :o . "Why dont i just chuck a lil' swivel on the spit ring and snap on to that?"

     

    slugger.JPG

    So there it is a 5g Halco Twisty with a #4 Gamakatsu Single Lure hook, swivel  to the Decoy Round Lure Snap!

     

    Havnt trialed it yet but Thursday is looking pretty sweet for a 'flats flick'

     

     

    So what are other folks using to mange line twists?

     

     

     

     

  8. Was wondering what designated a 'bouy' cause those white foam ones aren't cheap.

     

    Might be worth running a query via pirsa to confirm that one.

     

    4 litre empty Caltex oil containers or similar work well. You can write on them ( counts as a tagged net  ) and they have a handle to tie your rope to. ;)

     

    Good luck and get into em.

    ooh drifting for sqidleys is great to pass the time between lifts 

     

    mmmmm Squids n Crabs.

     

    Oh yeah that makes sense! Just need to be white or painted such.

     

    For some daft reason i pictured 20lt chemical drums in my head :facepalm: ...thinking 3'd be a tad cumbersome on the yak!

  9. Definitely go for 10ft+ for casting distance. All depends on the setup, what you're comfortable with and how you use it. I suck at casting distance so am stuffed anyway.

     

    Bear in mind, depending on where your are fishing it doesnt need to go to the horizon either.

     

    Certain rigring will cast better, ie 'pulley rigs'.

     

    Another issue with LB snapper (again depending on where you are fishing) is any shore breakers. A longer rod (and tall holder) can help keep the line high and out of the shore breakers where the line gets knocked arond and is more likley to collect any mobilised weed. i have heard of folks using 14ft LB metro, for precisely this reason.

  10. A moment's inattention (probably dealing with another puffer) saw the Symetre 1000 have a dunking last wading session :facepalm: . Uncomfortable with the basic rinse & wipe down,  i decided it strip, inspect & clean/lube as required.

     

    Nothing mystical about it. Here's what i did.....

     

     

    spool off.JPG

    • Spool off.
    • Bit of salt under spool, cleaned.

     

    spool support & washers.JPG

     

    • Remove spool support & washers.
    • Bit tricky but they do just pull off.
    • Note the exploded scematic diagram!

     

    rotor nut.JPG

    • Removed screw, rotor nut.
    • Handle off too (doesnt need to come off yet tho, just a bit easier to work with).
    • Bit of salt/rust on the handle. Inox applied & worked in.

     

    rotor.JPG

     

    Rotor now can come off

     

     

    anti reverse screws.JPG

    Loosen anti-reverse screws- the 3 larger ones here.

     

     

    anti reverse.JPG

    Anti reverse off

     

     

    sideplate screws.JPG

    Loosten the 3 sideplate screws(need handle off now).

     

     

    sideplate.JPG

     

    Sideplate off.

     

     

    drive & pinion.JPG

    • Removed drive & pinion gears.
    • Some discolourationg of grease on the gears and particularly on either end of the drive gear and where the pinion/drive mesh.
    • Noted no visable salt water ingress :).

     

    All cleaned & re-greased as required. Pretty much as my earlier post regarding the Penn.

    Reassembled, to the anti-reverse. Note no grease on the anti-reverse, light oil only. Otherwise it wont 'anti-reverse' at all!

     

     

    • Checked both sides of the bail arm & roller bearing for salt, rust & lube.
    • Note the line roller is a total pain in the :censored: . Suggest leave it alone unless it is acting up!
    • Reassembled & rotor back on, nut & screw in place.
    • Note nut is only finger-tight.

     

     

    Now for the drag:

     

    drag.JPG

    • removed retainer, and drag washers.
    • Cleaned, re-greased & reassembled.
    • Drag clicker cleaned & re-greased.

     

    Spool back on.

     

    Has fared fine from its swim. Mostly just expected wear & tear plus a little salt & corrosion.

     

    Job done. Just needs to be put to use and properly loaded up as intended :D !

     

     

  11. Id probably buy seperately but depends on your budget and what you are after. Have a look around the locals and see what's on offer.

     

    As an idea from the latest BCF catalogue (for no particular reason other than i'd briefly perused it):

     

    Symetre FL spin pack $149 . Dunno what the rod's like but  Symetre's a nice reel and you wont find one for under $118.

     

    Also have the Sedona FD Spin Pack at $109 and for a cheaper reel are pretty good too, you wont find under $70. Again NFI what the rods are like tho!

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