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A lot of tools you swing have a fat bit at the end - so do my rods  I originally used fat bits of cork because my guts would get bruised during Jewie season. (I used to fish for them regularly wi

sriracha sauce batter flatty nuggets

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29 minutes ago, Rybak said:

What about drilling a hole through the steel bar & threading through a zip tie. Saves wrapping line around it...Also old spark plugs would also work.

Yeah drilling was my first instinct aswell. 
 

but my cheap drill bits suck. I snapped one, dulled 2 and finally got through with the 4th. 
 

I even cut the steel on an angle so I wouldnt have to drill through the full 6mm of steel. 
 

once you get into a rhythm with tying them up, it’s pretty quick. And I don’t have the bits to make drilling an option. 

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1 hour ago, dmck said:

I use womens hair clips to push through the hole.  Have to trim to length first (cut of knobs from ends) then fit and tap sinker with hammer.  Cheap from supermarkets.

THey do rust so keep them dry - when not in use.

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Yeah Nice one👍 the Galvanised fencing wire Ive used will rust out eventually too - but I reckon I'll lose the sinker before that happens

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3 hours ago, yellow door 1 said:

Yeah Nice one👍 the Galvanised fencing wire Ive used will rust out eventually too - but I reckon I'll lose the sinker before that happens

Rusting problem with mine was I kept them in an ice-cream tub (no lid) and they got salt water (spray etc) in the tub... and I didnt empty..

Now the "new ones" are in sealed food containers and cant get wet.

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26 minutes ago, dmck said:

Rusting problem with mine was I kept them in an ice-cream tub (no lid) and they got salt water (spray etc) in the tub... and I didnt empty..

Now the "new ones" are in sealed food containers and cant get wet.

Yeah I seal up all my rigs etc in air tight containers these days - learnt that the hard way aswell😉

 

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26 minutes ago, dmck said:

How/why? is there some deformity (ridge?) on the wire that makes a pressure point?

I tested it 3 times and it kept cutting - I think the thin wire acts like a knife point on the mono - like those wire cheese cutters

There was also some stretching of the twists and elongation of the rig - so maybe that had something to do with it.

No holes fully closed in but they did get smaller before the mono snapped

There is a chance I put some scuff marks on the wire but I dont think so - I was was using smooth round nose pliers to form the loops

I was using 30lb berkley trilene mono which isnt know for its abrasion resistance - but it should have held way longer than 8lb - 10lb

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, dmck said:

what is/was the dia of the wire?

Ive just got some SS 'welding filler" to try, approx 1.2mm diam- 

Its pretty hard/stiff and may be too difficult to shape.. but I'll have a go and report.

Not sure of 80lb brown stainless's diametre but its super thin.

Its also pretty hard to work with compared to Galvanised fencing wire. The gal wire bends when you want it to and stays there, but the stainless is always fighting to get back to where it was.

I just went out and bought some .90mm gal wire as I was finding the 1.25mm gal wire too chunky.

Heres the silver .90 gal wire next to the brown 80lb stainless

I tested the 30lb mono with the .90mm gal wire and it got to 22lb of pull, so I stopped pulling.

The thinness of the Stainless wire I had, was most likely what was cutting the 30lb mono line

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3 hours ago, Soobz said:

Perhaps 316 MIG welding wire, it's pretty strong though so a bit hard to bend.

Yeah Im finding I'm willing to sacrifice thinness for stuff thats easy to bend - the .90 gal wire has the strength I need and is fat enough to not cut my leaders.

I gave the wire harness a go yesterday - and it has its draw backs - I suspect it might hurt hook up ratios and its harder to clear the weed from the twisted metal


 


 

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