yellow door 1

Must be 

Yeah I saw that - theres a shit-storm coming for that fella


https://www.smh.com.au/national/streets-empty-as-police-chief-praises-south-australians-in-lockdown-20201120-p56gbd.html

Took the carp out for another fish off with silver whiting and pilchards
3 out of 4 keepers preferred salted carp
 

Took the carp out for another fish off with silver whiting and pilchards
3 out of 4 keepers preferred salted carp
 

23 big bits for the 2 hook snell 
26 small bits for the paternosta
and 2 bits went to the crow tax😉

23 big bits for the 2 hook snell 
26 small bits for the paternosta
and 2 bits went to the crow tax😉

For me fluro for trace wins in every way except price and I will personally never go back, I can't say I've tried them all of course but the ones ive chosen to use, BCF Kato, Berkley, and a number of randoms from clearance racks I thought looked good, have significantly out performed my old mono traces, schroeder, schneider, maxima, platypus and many others, in every way.
It's not all just subjective either, sure I've done the underwater look for myself thing (fluro wins easy for my eyes) but also fished the 2 side by side in the type of conditions that count eg drummer in reef, snapper off the rocks bream around cover and also when fish are touchy and again fluro easily was better for abrasion resistance and seemed to keep getting bites when nothing touched the mono.
The only bit i do agree with a tiny bit is the knot strength BUT only on average if you count every knot tied. Poor knots will fail in fluro where mono is more forgiving so properly test the knot to see if it is going to fail before using, normally any issues with the knot and it goes well below breaking strain, but if you get it right then again much better than mono. 
Oh, it's normally significantly less stretchy too, like wayyyy less.
So when I see these types of claims I'm just not buying it and calling click bait because hard work and experience has taught me otherwise.

I've always used Fluro for my Bream stuff as i was always told it was invisible under water compared to Mono so just stuck with it for that reason only. With my Callop fishing i've been using a spool of platypus 20lb mono i've had kicking around for years and that takes a beating while dragging lures and spinners over snags/logs and i've never had a bust off issue yet that was caused by damaged line. Only reason i used the mono in the fresh is the water is far from clear compared to most of the salt water fishing.

I've found this also. I tend to think it is for the following reasons
 
-Lighter flouro holds up better than the equivalent breaking strain mono, therefore you'll be using it in a situation where you may call for mono 50% to 100% stronger again than the flouro.
- I've caught decent fish on 5lb flouro in complete comfort, knowing the line won't have any issues, but the same fish I would have needed to have been nervous fishing even 10lb Trilene or 6lb magnathin. Maxima ultragreen on the other hand in an 8lb or so I wouldn't have been too concerned, but I don't believe I would have got the bite due to the other characteristics of the line. 

Hate these blanket claims. If they want to say brand X mono in 10lb vs brand Y Fluoro in 10 lb then maybe you can make a comparison.

The Hybid line works just as good as full fluorocarbon at a cheaper price,including Yo-Zuri Hybrid
Too many variables in choices these days
 
 

Yeah I'd like to see if soaking the spools for 30 mins, made any difference.

Its the water absorption that is supposed to weaken the mono line.

But those results give real cause for concern for the "Flouro Is Tougher camp".

There are so many lies in the fishing game thats its hard to tell whats real - even stated diameters and breaking strains are often wildly different from what it says on the spool.

23 big bits for the 2 hook snell 
26 small bits for the paternosta
and 2 bits went to the crow tax😉

Yeah I've noticed different flouro's, have different levels of stickyness when tightening uni knots - Vanish Mainline flouro is noticeable easier to tighten, than the FlouroKote I'm trialing (Kast King Brand) 

I've found I have to be super careful when tightening - Slobber, plus keep the knot under my tongue, in a pool of spit as I tighten - sometimes than doesnt even work, and I have the grab the knot between thumb and fore finger and ease it down the line. Because if I just try to yank it down - I get friction damage which severely weakens the line



 

Personally used nylon leaders up until relatively recently and don't think I'll go back in the lighter line classes; that is to say anything under 20lb. 
 
Flouro is more abrasion resistant, lasts longer without weakening and personally I find it is less prone to breaking in the knot than the nylons I previously used. I used Maxima, YGK, Berkley trilene, Stren magnathin etc etc and the rockfish FC outperforms them all. 
 
In anything over 15lb I use black magic leader material. Really rate it for everything from surface whiting (yes I use 20lb for yfw) to livebaiting kings, bottom bashing etc etc
Edit: should add that the shorter spool lengths of Flouro do mean you replace them more often and probably help when it comes to not letting the line get too old; which is probably a good thing for anyone that doesn't remember the exact date and Moon phase on which they bought that spool of mono. 
 

I have found that when tying Fluoro the knot needs to be well & truley lubricated (spit) before pulling it up tight to increase the knot strength.
If you tie a knot without/with little lube & pull it tight watch what happens to the fluoro at the base of the knot just as it gets tight & you can watch the damage happen.
Since I've started really slobbering on my fluoro knots if had next to no failures
Yorky
 

I remember using some about 20 years ago on a trip to venus bay. Lost trevally after trevally, so threw it out and went back to my maxima line. No lost fish after that (same 6 pound line class).
Not sure if I had to use different knots or not but since that experience, haven't gone back. Fish with a lot of people who use all different lines, including fluro but my catch rates are compatible.  I also change over my line annually  Except braid - had that for 5 years and it's still going strong!

Heres an article which debunks some of the claims I thought were true

https://activeanglingnz.com/2016/01/04/the-fluorocarbon-myth/?fbclid=IwAR2gyIPTVVBMrgkh8uHOzhGpPPcSrOsKYD1Yxo-Zc1xa60tM4axJeBmdW5c

Trouble is the undersized bycatch. I use 10/0 circle hooks to try and avoid small fish, but I still catch undersized coral trout and non-target "flowerpots". I'm out there for a feed in deeper water, not catch and release sportfishing...but still have to catch and release. It will be the same with SA folk having to release all snapper. Red emperor have massive head and rib skeletal framework, and their swimbladder bursts out just behind the vent where the skin is thin. You can see this in clear water as a cloud of bubbles accompanies the fish on the way up. Same with "slatey bream". The worst affected are the "nannies" (small-mouth and large-mouth, aka crimson and saddletail snapper). Large-mouth nannygai from 50m plus are so "blown" their eyes are bulging out on stalks, their scales are lifting, and they look like they have a football in their mouth. Hard to see them surviving any sort of treatment in that depth. Luckily the undersized fish (<400mm) live inshore in shallower water

Looking good YD1.

As I refine my technique (translation - just listen to what knowledgeable blokes have already told me( Bran is the ultimate smell absorber - and when it comes to soaking up liquid - loose newspaper turns to mush - but whole newspapers placed under the flesh act like an absorbent pad that can be easily removed before harvest.

Harvest time can be a sh!t fight that lasts 45 mins - or a forgone conclusion that is over in seconds - its all about controlling moisture content of the bedding material.😉

Once I get that right  - Melbournes $30 for 300 maggots is a price tag, I will never have to worry about again

I'm still in the middle of that sh1t fight - but im only a newspaper away from having the game solved😉
 
 

Yeah thats the last piece of the puzzle for me - super quick processing of the maggots to get them into fresh bran - but Ive actively encourage crows to hang out in the back yard, so I cant leave the fillets exposed - I'm hoping a full newspaper inside the bucket will provide the absorption I need.
 
 

As I refine my technique (translation - just listen to what knowledgeable blokes have already told me( Bran is the ultimate smell absorber - and when it comes to soaking up liquid - loose newspaper turns to mush - but whole newspapers placed under the flesh act like an absorbent pad that can be easily removed before harvest.

Harvest time can be a sh!t fight that lasts 45 mins - or a forgone conclusion that is over in seconds - its all about controlling moisture content of the bedding material.😉

Once I get that right  - Melbournes $30 for 300 maggots is a price tag, I will never have to worry about again

I'm still in the middle of that sh1t fight - but im only a newspaper away from having the game solved😉
 
 

Beautiful conditions this morning.
3 Gar in the bucket and a lost Squid.
 


 

Do your hooks snap? This could be why,

Metal fabricator has a simple hack that may improve the life of your hooks