waspy

I quite often check the alveys on ebay jack thats where i picked up a brand new boat reel for 50 dollars never been used ,the wooden ones depending on condition and age dont really sell for large amounts ,if you can read the inscriptions on the back you can email bruce or glen alvey and they will tell you exactly when it was made ,the spools where made from silky oak cedar and camphor laurel (smells like vicks when you turn it ) which is now considered a weed in queensland go figure? just google ebay alvey reels and you will see the range on there .

Hi all i had some of the long life gents for around 8 months or so in the fridge ,only just got rid of them after many times of pulling them in and out of suspended animation ,keep them on the lowest shelf in the fridge and they will last a long time .

Go get em mate want a full report on how you went ok.

funny how they are all named after dogs got a few mates that'd like the hooch :whistle: :whistle: if you do manage to get a whiting on a popper alex I will be shattered, I have tried so many times now with a grand total of zero I have only used the bushy's poppers though good luk with it mate look forward to your vid cheers 4THA

I agree with piranha ,when i was looking at the same thing for throwing soft plastics ,the place i bought my shimano suggested that i buy a 2500 rather than a 1000 same price ,The thinking behind it was what if you want to change from s/p to bait a 1000 is a reel that might have to be used for that purpose only ,i opted for the 2500 sienna 50 bills cant go wrong teamed with my 7 foot shimano telescopic as far as i can tell seems like a good outfit for s/p and bait .

Hi Savagelip,We are still working on our baitworm culture research, unfortunately setbacks get thrown at us and these things take time to get around/over.We are currently on hold awaiting the outcome of a request to change details of our next 'chunk' of research funds.We are hoping to get back into the full swing of things by mid next year, the plans are still the same just the timeframe that has shifted.Latest news is that we have had talks with an industry partner interested in culturing our worms as part of a waste mitigation initiative on their abalone farm.All is still good on the baitworm culture front just not going as fast as we would have hoped.Sam

Okay, all fixed! Also, if anyone knows any more cams feel free to post them and I will add them to the list.

Hi guys ,thanks for the vote of confidence ale ,its funny you mention the nuclear chicken s/p i actually looked at them this morning in big w as i had read somewhere on this sight they were the gun lure for snapper,Aus i can see the difference in the thickness in the braid and so with that had a look at different thicknesses of some of the mono and braid that i have ,the 50 lb spectra is thinner than the 20 lb trilene i bought , i remember i spooled the abu with 100lb braid and when trolling it looked like a piece of rope coming of the reel but it is actually only 0.10 thicker than the trileen mono which is nothing really compared to what 100lb mono would be in thickness ,I can see meself now ale big straw hat ,,tournament shirt berkly stickers on the boat pulling into sullies ramp ,fisheries see me and make a bee line for me as i pull up to the wash area ,mind if we have a look ?yea no worries mate only to discover two barely legal salmon trout in the esky .

This may help in some info WaspyI have been using this Strikerline for over a year and it works as it's meant to,I have never had any issues from it.Just recently i got this 20Lb Power Pro super 8 line to try out20Lb Power Pro super 8 line thickness dia .23mm20Lb Strikerline thickness dia .18mmPicture shows the two brands but the Strikerline pictured is actually 30 Lb line which is .26mmSo for 300m for under $13 incl delivery it's not bad a deal and it is a thinner braid,remembering the line is probably made in the same factory as other well known brands.Pics taken with mobile..sorry for the quality..http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Spuer-Strong-Dyneema-Spectra-Braid-Fishing-Line-300M-327-Yard-20LB-Gray-/260949907848?pt=A

Waspy, Im assuming your query is in regards to your newly acquired taste for Plastix fishing?Mate, 3 years ago I was exactly the same, had never used anything but maxima mono.First braid I bought was some rubbish fused Jarvis walker crap, was terrible!Had memory, wasn’t supple at all, almost like thin wire. Almost gave up on braid, but hit buy it now on some cheap China dyneema braid on ebay and used that.Straight away I found it 10X better than any mono Id ever used. The sensitivity it gives over stretchy mono is amazing.Never had an issue with it breaking pre maturelySince then I still have some china braid on some reels, but also forked out for some middle of the road Power Pro and Fins on others , and even some high end Saltiga braid on one reel.It all has its benefits over Mono in my preferred form of fishing ( boat mainly ), and the quality does go up as you spend more.But Il say it again, even the cheap stuff is killer compared to mono IMO.I must say, I don’t like the fused stuff tho, got given some 50lb Rovex Viros with a reel purchase once, noticed it was fused, sits in my closet un opened.

I'm another fan of the sufix 832! I use it in 30lb offshore for the snapper, very impressed, can't fault it!

sufix fuse is trash. sufix 832 is awesome braid. I have it in 20lb fire orange for chucking big metals in the surf and 40lb white for bait bashing in the surf. online its about $40 a 300yard spool about double that in tackle stores. casts very good and has great knot strength.

8/0 gamakatsu circles for me. Have caught undersize (around 35cm) up to the biggins on them.Also often use a two hook sliding rig for large baits, such as whole slimeys / tommies etc.

Sufix 832 is killa braid but it's not cheapYou might be looking at the suffix fuse stuff and I've heard it's not all that good

7/0 gamakatsu the best ive found, take ruggers right through to meter plus fish.finer gauge that most for easier hook-ups on lighter line,never had 1 let go yet.

Hey waspy, have been using Suffix 832 braid now for a couple of years now, can not fault it as I mainly use overhead reels, found other brands that have a course texture about them that courses the reel to whiplash .

Hey everyone,Thought we could do with some more good info threads on S&H, so it's time to post one! I'll be focusing on smaller, tastier, land based species: Tommies, Mullet, Salmon Trout and Garfish mainly. This is a guide for Land based fishing from wharves, jetties and breakwalls etc. and is mostly for the newbies, but hopefully some of our forum members can get something out of it too!Let's get it started!It all starts with the rigs, it pays to keep things simple but versatile if possible, So I use 2 hook paternoster rigs; made from quality terminal tackle:Attention to detail helps a lot in rigging for smaller or spooky species in clear water, in this case; good quality fluorocarbon and very sharp hooks are the main areas I spend money on. I use mono for main line and terminate it with a small snap swivel so rigs can be changed without any tying.To make my rigs, I tie a surgeon's loop in the line and 2 dropper loops using a dropper loop pegboard (pictured in the video.)The rig is a regular double paternoster except that I cut one of the “legs” off each dropper so that it's no longer a loop, then tie on the hooks with a blood knot.At the sinker end I leave about 50cm and tie on a snap swivel so that sinkers can be changed as needed. When you're fishing over rough ground, you can take the sinker off and use a clip on float; but I fish the bottom for these species 95% of the time, so the float is an afterthought.The sinkers pictured are 1/4oz(7g), 3/8oz(10.5g) and 3/4oz(21g) with 3/8 being the most often used; I wouldn't recommend anything heavier than 3/4oz, as this style of fishing seldom requires much of a cast, if at all. Hooks are Daiichi suicide size 10, short shank; any smaller and you're going to end up with more gut-hooked fish!http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=X5sLQH_N3BM Bait is maggots most of the time for me, I've noticed long life ones are often a bit more lively and worth the extra dollar or so over the bran packaged ones. with the maggots, I thread on enough so that I can only see the barb of the hook, they last ages this way and you can fish for longer without re-baiting.Worms are a bit too expensive for me and I personally only use them when chasing whiting, though you can harvest your own if you're time rich and can get the technique down.Pilchards are a great universal bait, but as far as smaller species go, I use fresh frozen (not brined) pilchard cubes unweighted on a fluoro trace and 4/0 suicide hook for Salmon Trout and it works very well for me.Mince is a great bait for mullet, regular beef mince thickened very slightly with wheat bran or breadcrumbs and some curry powder, garlic, aniseed or 5 spice mix added in works well; squash it into a ball shape on the hook and gently cast or drop it in and you're good to go.Lots of other baits can be used for these species: cockles, prawn, squid etc but these are my “go to” baits and they get me good results.Burley is a must for these smaller species and can make the difference between going hungry and home made fish 'n' chips on most days. A mix of pellets and small burley log in a plastic burley bucket just below the surface of the water works very well for me and the fish normally show up within the hour, depending on the tide. Arguably the best burley I've used is from Arthur at betta price tackle, so that's where I get mine!First thing I do when I get to a jetty, breakwall etc is always to get the burley bucket in the water and tied off; then set up and get some bait in the water within about 15 metres downdrift of the burley bucket. Most of the time I'm aiming for tommies, sometimes gar if there's weedbeds around; occasionally I'll drift out the unweighted pilchard cube for salmon trout instead of the maggots. Tommies are my main target a lot of the time as they're not size restricted, so they're great for use as bait and burley and make good live baits.As soon as the first usable fish is pulled up, it goes either on a squid jag or is used as a livebait (depending on what jetty I'm at.)Tommies make decent livebaits but squid love them, so if I'm at a squidding jetty it goes onto the squid jig instead. I rig my livebaits using this technique:4/0 hooks are used and the mouth hook is only threaded on the line instead of tied, the end hook snelled; this ensures that the fish can swim freely and can be adjusted for any size fish. until recently I was using a single lip hook, but I missed out on a lot of good Snook as a result (they seem to love striking at the belly of livebaits instead of the head.)For chasing landbased snapper or big salmon, I kill the first fish and use it whole on a pulley rig with the same 2 hook config as above, using up to 6/0 circle hooks if the bait is big enough.So that's my usual game plan for a day's fishing. I hope there were some helpful bits in there!Thanks for reading,Shimsman.

4/0 circle landbased and yak.2 snelled 8/0 gama suicides off the boat and the biggest bait I can find.

Waspy I know nothing, but if you make sure that you expose all of the pointy bit of your hook, 1/0-8/0 you'll be in the game. :f Good luck.

I only fish for snapper land based and my rig is a little different to most, but my favourite is a snelled gang of three 3/0 Owner SSW Cutting Point hooks. If I run out of the Owners then a Gamakatsu Octopus is a good alternative.Cheers!SS

I use 4/0 and 6/0 circles lose the small hooks to big fish sometime though, but can get em back when ya gut em