Underpants

If someone were to ask you "how would you morally justify fishing?", how would you respond to such a question?

Rather than postulate a hypothetical argument, I would seek clarification by answering "Why do you feel one needs to morally justify fishing?"

Then with some understanding on the perspective of one asking such question, a reasonable answer could be formulated.

Just find a sausage that you like, de-skin and roll in Pampas.

I like the English Pork, as they are traditionally thicker (usually pig gut skins). The standard 'sausage' seems too thin for me. Also need something with enough fat content, the really lean sausages wont work as well.

 English Pork Sausages from my local butcher, de-skined & Pampas puff pastry. . Tried a slice of prosciutto this time, good but better (and cheaper!) without.

Tofu over carp any day! Fresh, well bled carp is edible but totally devoid of any flavor or texture.

Fishing? Wanaka & skiing !

Yummo.........only thing better is pickled occy .

Doubt it will eradicate them. Rabbits are still around and even rebuilding their numbers a bit.

 

Not sure if there will be a native fish boom to fill the ecological niche though. Carp are only one part of the problem with the Murray and not sure what capacity natives would have to breed up with low flows, limited flooding events, limited breeding stock, lack of snags and poor water quality. The only factor there that removing carp would help with is the water quality a little, and even then farm runoff, flow control and destruction of riparian vegetation is a bigger factor than the carp. The main reason carp are so prevalent is they can thrive under those conditions while natives don't so it may just be a case of having just as few natives and a much reduced carp population.

 

But if we can get a native stock rebuilding policy in place with supplementary stocking and enhanced recruitment through re-snagging, higher water flows and some flooding events getting rid of most the carp will definitely help.

 

Much harder to release something else that may become invasive since live specimens of species that might are banned from importation. But could you imagine some of the likely suspects, American black bass, giant wels catfish like the Spanish Ebro river, sturgeon, various sunfish species like bluegill, alligator gar and others? Might be great angling but all of those are highly invasive and would thrive in the slow warm conditions in the Murray.

Quite a few bunnies about this season, proving more reliable fun than the fishing !

Too true. Carp are somewhat a convenient scapegoat for the state of the Murray. It will  take more then their effective control to bring life back to the system.

Kinda like Tilapia in SW QLD.

http://www.abc.net.au/news/2016-01-07/marlin-catch-footage-shows-crazy-close-call/7073300

Well ducked by the bloke on the left. Nevertheless, brown trousers all round i recon

Thanks for that Underpants. Looks like Santa needs to bring get me a yabbie net! When you say "legally access" are you referring to private property?

Exactly most is in farming land not public land.

Certainly allowed to catch marron; they are introduced and are not to be released back into the water (endemic to Southwest WA not anywhere else...note so are koalas introduced on KI  , but I'll leave that f**k-up alone)!   Your standard yabbie opera nets should suffice and usual yabbie offereings. Note the maximum allowed opening of 75mm is actually a little on the small side to be optimal for marron , but you're kinda stuffed there.

The tricky part is to determine where you can legally access suitable water to do so. These cards are held tightly. A hint would be the western half of the island, and further inland than you would think. Water must be permanently fresh, many of the larger rivers are estuarine, particularly so in the summer months with reduced fresh flows and following poor spring rainfall. Hence go upstream from the coast.  If you can catch bream you wont get marron!

http://www.strikehook.com/index.php/topic/24703-ki-landbased-tips/

Dont know re kayaking but the larger sheltered bays would be a good start: Nepean Bay, American river area etc. Heaps of other places, likely more weather dependent. Note the Sanctuary Zones.

http://www.environment.sa.gov.au/marineparks/find-a-park/kangaroo-island/encounter

Mmmm yummo! So you do tentacles as they are ....with skin & suckers on?

 

I gave up on that 1... Can preserve them well enough, but when it comes to yellowfin whiting, you're better off with frozen peeled prawns!

They turn their noses up at worms that aren't live in my experience. The small ones don't mind them sometimes, but mostly it's not eaven worth going fishing for them without live bait! Or very fresh frozen prawns/shrimps around the new moon especially.

Sorry mate would have to disagree with you this time. Years ago I used to use frozen and persevered worms with no change In catch rate compared to fresh. For the last fee years I've barely used bait on yfw, If they wont hit the popper I change to a gulp turtleback worm and they smash them harder than bait I recon.

 

I'd generally agree with you there Keeno. However I know Brandkim  usually fishes metro (which i never have..yet), different structures likely feeding patterns. Dunno but id have to gauge from his observations for metro over our 'usual' grounds.

That's   awesome!

 

 

I reckon I have the luring (say for Salmon) ok now - I actually have 20lb braid (could be 15lb as you say) and a metre of 30lb mono leader (separated by swivel).

 

For the smaller stuff (YFW/FH/Gar etc) I'll use around 6lb mono (just because cheaper than braid) and 8lb fluro.

 

The 'knot' (whether it be a FG or Uni etc) has me intrigued, purely because I'm thinking line twist.  Surely having a swivel would greatly reduce line twist compared to one straight line with a knot.

Or, does this really not matter due to casting and sitting for a bite compared casting a lure and retrieval over and over again.

 

Yes line twist can be a problem, mainly when casting metals tho. In this case i use a use a quality snap swivel ( currently Black Magic rolling snap swivels)at the business end. No line twists and quick lure changes.

HP & SPs the action of most lure/technique combinations doesn't lead to twists in the line. I either tie the leader directly or use a lure snap.

Probably a matter of definitions but my rough interpretation (as it applies to the way i fish): 'leader' when its attached to braid mainline for lure casting; 'trace' for rigs in bait scenarios, for either braid of mono mainlines. Otherwise its the same material, fluoro or mono.

Leader is used on braided main lines for shock absorption, abrasion resistance, 'invisability' ect, as mentioned above. Kinda the same when its part of a rig but shock absorbtion doesn't apply with mono mainline.

I generally use a FG knot for leader (mono or flouro) to braided mainline.

For a bait setup, (braid or mono mainline) i tie the mainline to a swivel and then attach the rig (trace). There are a few exceptions, such as a running rig, where the sinker runs on the mainline before the swivel or other tackle. Only for mono mainline tho as 'running' on braid kills it due to abrasion.

Agree with the Pirate that you could certainly lighten up a bit ( ), but it is a matter of personal preference.

For 'small stuff' generally have two setups: 6/8lb braid with 8/12lb flouro via a FG knot. Maybe a bit heavier leader if chasing something like snook or flathead.

For shore based lure casting for salmon, 15lb braid with 20lb mono leader.

As with any technical stuff  there is a hell of a lot of marketing BS with all fishing gear, including leader lines: Really tho you just need to decide weather to go supple or stiff, ect. I prefer supple for light lure casting, stiffer for salmon casting and stiff for most rigs (esp patternosters as it helps the hooks stick out perpendicular to the rest of the rig)

Apply some critical thinking (or bring a strainer) to filter out the BS, patronise a local tackle shop where someone might be able to explain things to you, then find something you are comfortable spending the $ on and experiment!

I do struggle to understand what any proposal might constitute. Are we talking about a 'low' weir to catch the high tidal flows and retain the water volume,creating an artificial lake ? Hence preventing lower tidal movements from influencing the estuary? Really dont have enough information to provide an sort of objective opinion.

I would very much lean towards the 'precautionary principle' and suggest that such 'engineering' solution (weir) to the perceived 'problem' (lack of large recreational water body) could create more problems than good. Look how   the Murray Mouth is due to siltation.....low flows....over allocation of water resources  and a s**t load of weirs!!!!

An hypothetical Onk weir will exacerbate any effect of low outflows and silting buy providing a low-flow zone for silt to deposit and further preventing the winter storm surges from combining with seasonal winter flows, which naturally open up the system and remove sediment. Sure it will provide a nice lake in the short term but it will quickly fill up with silt and be useless. The problem lies upstream (Mt Bold & private dams) and the ongoing effects of our recent drought.

Further, from the perspective of an enviromentalist/recreational fisho (?!) any weir will very much interfere with any natural movement of fish and clearly be detrimental.

These folks are disillusionaly single minded. The bigger worry is what political influence do they have?

Hang on....the "Southern Times Messenger"..."News Corp". I've just over analysed this. Think we need to take their version of 'journalism' with a liberal dashing of salt.

 

What I find to humanly kill them is to slide your fingers inside hood to separate the first part of the membrane and they turn white - you might that a little easier.

 

But great report mate and a good one to get the comp going

 

Used to try it that way but seemed to have lost the knack?

Hard part is I'm usually doing all of this in at least thigh deep water,  squid is in the net above the water with handle jammed up one armpit. The wading tub is your best friend!

Its not so much a drama to clean squid than it is to prep for cooking, particularly S&P style, where all the small pieces need to be dried on paper towel and then double dipped (fingers get caked with gloop) and all laid out separately for frying. Haven't used the SquidEzy but have seen it used a few times.

I find cleaning pretty easy other than skinning which is a pain, although easier if a chux cloth is used to help rub it off. Easier still if if tubes have been frozen and then defrosted, I just like putting stuff in the freezer as 'ready to cook'.

Also like my tubes frozen and defrosted before use as it tenderises them a bit. Plus if you only catch 1 now and then, you can build up a stash before a cook up!

I clean my squid as such:

• Fore & index fingers down the inside of the tube, behind the 'backbone'.
• Roughly holding the head in the palm, up near your wrist and gripping with thumb & little finger, you can pretty well pull most of the guts out with backbone & head attached.
• Wings off and tube skin rubbed off and then turned inside out. The can be a bit easier if the tube is filled with water.
• Remaining guts and membrane wiped off, drained & vac-packed for freezing.
• I usually clean the wings and save, mincing for stuffed squid tubes.
• Head packed for bait with long grabber tentacles removed and packed separately.
• Guts saved for burley or green waste.

I quick report and a few techniques. Nothing fancy but thought I'd just get this comp rolling.......

Had a call from my chief fishing buddy yesterday that he'd just bagged out squiding his local metro wading spot. Same as this time last year, where he recons they must have been spawning, were there 2 days and then gone. With conditions still favorable and hoping that '2nd day' was today,  I decided to check out his home grounds.

Water was lovely and clear and warm enough to leave the wetsuit behind. I was expecting wind to drop as it changed direction. Things were looking pretty good. A short wade out to the appropriate structure with a little 1.8 Yozuri. After a half dozen or so casts I hooked and bagged a little bait sized squid and took this for a good omen, with the session just commencing. Alas it was not to be. Walking all over the rocks and flicking everywhere yielded nothing.

Whilst deciding that it was time to give up and head in, i spotted a school well within casting range, of course with my jig way out in the opposite direction! In the short time i was able to re-cast the school had gone out of visual range so i worked the area around where i last saw them. Gone! Finally i hooked a decent sized one, pulling line with each surge. Quickly worked into the net, dispatched & bagged.

Unfortunately that was it so i called it a session. Not quite enough for Xmas stuffed squid ! http://www.strikehook.com/index.php/topic/26369-grilled-stuffed-squid/

Wading is my favorite style of fishing and can readily apply to squid. Clear waters and low current/tidal movements work really well and enable a real visual element to fishing, one of the major joys of wading!. I prefer around the low tide and immediately after, also when one can readily wade to more suitable areas. Basically anywhere there is seagrass or weedy reef works: Just past the 'blue line' around Yorkes, reefy stuff around Marino and further south........pretty well all over the place!

I don't usually specifically target squid whilst wading, instead wait until i see them following a SP or HB intended for something else. Being inquisitive creatures, they regularly oblige. Then its a quick changeover to a suitable jig, flick over and thru the area where the squid was last seen with fairly standard lift & drop retrieve. If they are still around they can be pretty quick and easy to find.

With the super light tackle and skinny waters, I opt for small 1.8 & 2 sized jigs with nothing too lairy. Anything bigger sinks too quicky and can easily spook your target. You often need to let squid run for a while with this style of squidding so back the drag off a little, this way potential squid can 'take' the jig rather than drop it straight away. If they do drop the jig you may not get another shot .

Once hooked, retrieve slow & steadily, letting the rod take the squid's surges, slip a net in behind while still in the water and hopefully aim that inky goo elsewhere ! I like to humanly kill straight away by squeezing the head prior to placing in the catch bag. Careful though, squid can bite quite well so hold from the tube and squeeze the head from behind with thumb & index finger. You will know you have done it correctly when there is an instant loss of the squid colours, to white.

Its worth while getting straight back out in the same area where the last one was caught as squid generally occur in schools. Sometimes it may be 1 or 3, other times i have had 4 in the net before dispatching the first !

I love eating squid but it's a can be a tedious pain to prepare. I adore salt & pepper squid, with a double coating of egg white/seasoned corn flour prior to deep frying . Otherwise stuffed squid (above link) is a fave. If im being 'lazy'  a simply crosshatching, light flouring and onto the BBQ grill with sweet chilli sauce & .

Topic title caught my eye ..... not what i was expecting tho  !

Hi there , talking about the weight of your rod holder....maybe try a plastic star dropper... I have not tried them but might be the go...  . Look up fatcow.com.au....they sell them...ASCO...is the company I think ....they are half the weight...at around $10....wont rust..good luck

Nice. http://www.fatcow.com.au/c/ASCO/Recycled-Plastic-Star-Pickets-from-ASCO-p2501451

Now if i can find some today ready to leave friday morning......!

Plus the holes on the picket lower down would be great to attach a occy strap to hold the reel down.

I have used light sticks before, but they're quite expensive. Now I use these little LED lights powered by button batteries. They come with plastic brackets that you can tape onto your rod, and then slide the light on when needed. There are cheap ones out there, but I've found the slightly more dear ones to be much better value.

 

Yep I know the ones you mean

As far as striking, I use circle hooks and set my drag with enough tension to set the hook but not allow my rig to dragged into the sea, no need to strike and set the hook, the fish do it themselves. I also use homemade rod holders that go deep into the sand, a short length of PVC is not enough to stand up to the pull of a decent fish IMO.

Please share your rod holders....... .

Yes Underpants, I've seen that picture in another thread (on wading bags I think?). I like the idea of wheels that also provide flotation - how are they attached to the 'axles'?

Flotation & stability!

Initially it was 20mm pvc running thru the floats with a pvc end cap glued on. The floats & axels wore thru (with the addition of a bit of sand) and the floats started coming off.

I re-did the wheels & axles by  jamming  25mm pvc into the floats with a rubber mallet and then running this on new full width  20mm pvc axles (so they were running on pcv/pvc rather than polystyrene/pvc) plus 25mm outer for extra stiffness. All held together with end caps, with a self tapping screw (for easier dissembling) rather than glue. This also keeps the floats free from rubbing on the tub.

Axles attached to tub (straight thru the base) with matching pvc saddles and all-stainless bolts (flat phillips head on the inside), washers & nylon lock nuts.

These end caps should/could have been recessed into the float.

Depends on the size of the fish and conditions. Little fish and calm conditions a bell is good, although they are really annoying when fighting the fish. Salt Creek and Pounding surf/currents and weed then i'd use a glow stick on the tip and fit a "powerful" glow stick to the blank just above the fore grip or even fit a light onto the rod stand. That way you can tell by the angle between the glow sticks and also slight illumination of the real as to wether you've been hit or not.

 The latter is more what i was referring too. I like that one & have some old big glow sticks needing using.